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Capitan Gap Rock Climbing
Routes in Capitan Gap
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Lichen Adventure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Long Way Up, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Milani's slab V0+ 4+ |
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New She-riffs In Town S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Offwidth Project T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Pocket Rocket TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reptar S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sport Route #2 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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T-Rex Don't Trad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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TR #2 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Elevation: | 7,209 ft | 2,197 m |
| GPS: |
33.64071, -105.45925 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 9,483 total · 116/month | |
| Shared By: | Andrew Ellis on Apr 20, 2018 | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: On US Forest Service Land. Please contact land managers before bolting.
Details
This crag is on US Forest Service land. The current District Ranger would like to be collaborated with before any hardware is installed on the Smokey Bear Ranger District. Please work with local climbers/ the forest service before installing any bolts.
Description
The best climbing in the Ruidoso area. About 1 hour north of town, find an unexpected crag on a large granite spire with a remote atmosphere. Currently there are 7 sets of anchors, including several sport lines and a few trad lines.
While there certainly is potential for more routes, don't expect to get in a lot of volume at this time, but come check out the area for some unique climbing in a remote setting. Local climbers hope to establish more routes in the coming years.
Please stay on trails where they exist and practice leave no trace.
While there certainly is potential for more routes, don't expect to get in a lot of volume at this time, but come check out the area for some unique climbing in a remote setting. Local climbers hope to establish more routes in the coming years.
Please stay on trails where they exist and practice leave no trace.
Getting There
- High clearance vehicle strongly recommended
Travel east of Capitan, NM for a few miles on highway 380 / Billy The Kid Trail before turning north on County Road 001. Stay on County Road 001 for roughly 7 miles until you hit the top of the gap between east and west mountain. High clearance is strongly recommended after you cross the cattle grate at this point. Continue down the back side of the gap for another two miles until the large granite spire appears on your left. Park at a pullout below the spire and hike 10 minutes uphill to the climbs.
Dispersed camping at the top of the gap road is accessible by low clearance vehicles (2 miles from the climbing area). A nice, quieter spot for dispersed camping sits below the granite spire in the pullout area.
Classic Climbing Routes at Capitan Gap
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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