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Elevation: 4,642 ft 1,415 m
GPS: 34.79127, -111.77409
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,346 total · 315/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 3, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Description provided by Matthew.Johnson91 (edited by Derek Field): Year-round goodness to be found here! Castle Rock is the name broadly given to the rock formations that can be seen on the left (west) as you enter the Village of Oak Creek from the south. While somewhat less striking and not as recognizable as nearby Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte, it is higher than Bell Rock - with far fewer tourists. From the right angles, you'll see that there are two towers (Castle Rock and North Castle Tower) that are separated from the main wall in a line to the south - making for some shade at any time of day. This is an area with beautiful, classic summits, shade to be found at any time of day, and some great moderate lines. Here, an experienced, cautious, well-equipped party can get a few pitches off deck in the morning and be back enjoying a beer in the Village by lunchtime. Helmets are essential here. Lots of clean, protectable cracks but also a lot of loose rock, particularly on the belay ledges, so use caution and common sense.

Getting There Suggest change

Just north of the Village of Oak Creek, park at the Bell Rock Trailhead parking lot then, looking both ways, cross Hwy-179 and head west on the Templeton Trail. After about ten minutes, the trail makes a U-turn to head back east. (Coordinates here are approximately 34.792587, -111.769852). Look for an unsigned (but still well defined) trail that continues westward, ascending to the saddle between Castle Rock and North Castle Tower.

The approach hike will take less than 30 minutes and follows a well established hiking trail the whole way up. Upon reaching the saddle, you will find decent little trails connecting the different ledge systems on each formation.

Note that you can also park directly under the formation on the side of Red Butte Road near the Red Agave Resort, thus shortening the approach to 15 minutes but introducing potential controversy with residents. We ask that you please use the standard Bell Rock trailhead approach for the sake of keeping these amazing chunks of sandstone accessible to climbers. After all, 30 minutes is still pretty damn good for access to Coconino sandstone.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Royalty
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 22
Transylvania Trip
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Jester
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Gargoyle
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Off With His Chickenhead!
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Coronation
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Mid-Evil Times
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Excalibur
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Nights of the Round Table
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Welcome to the Royal Family
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Tweaker
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
King's Cup
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Pitchfork Uprising
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Elfo's Revenge
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Royalty Castle Rock
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Transylvania Trip Castle Rock
 22
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Jester Castle Rock
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Gargoyle Castle Rock
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Off With His Chickenhead! Castle Rock
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Coronation Castle Rock
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mid-Evil Times Castle Rock
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Excalibur Castle Rock
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nights of the Round Table Castle Rock
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Welcome to the Royal Family Castle Rock
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Tweaker Castle Rock
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
King's Cup Castle Rock
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pitchfork Uprising Castle Rock
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Elfo's Revenge Castle Rock
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock Area »

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