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Gangsters Paradise Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Gangsters Paradise

L › R R › L A › Z

	Menace II Society T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	G's In Da Trees T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pusher Man T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Koan T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Unknown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Prayers In The Streetlights T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Gangsters Paradise T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Halfway Crook T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Elevation:	5,901 ft	1,799 m
GPS:	38.0022, -109.5866 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,733 total · 55/month
Shared By:	Stefan Hadeed on Apr 1, 2018
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Details

2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…

Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Details

This wall has some mega classics, though, buyer beware it is not as densely stacked as some other Indian Creek Crags, the walk between some of the climbs is well worth it. Be sure to check out the mega classic Koan (12+) on the approach trail as well as Pusher-Man(12+) at the top of the trail and the name sake Gangsters Paradise(12+/13-) at the right side of the cliff.

Approach

Drive past the pistol whipped parking no more than a quarter mile. You will go down a small hill, at the base of this hill you will see an obvious wash on your left. Park across from this on the slick rock. Though not currently a crowded wall, this is a very small parking area so plan carpooling accordingly.

Hike up this wash further than you think looking out for cairns on your right. Follow cairns up the hillside. You will walk right by the beautiful tiger striped boulder of Koan then be deposited directly underneath Pusher Man, an obvious finger splitter on a proud prow. Route locations will be described mostly in relationship to Pusher Man.