All Locations > Montana > Southwest Region > Butte Area > Humbug Spires

The Wedge Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Wedge

L › R R › L A › Z

	Balcony Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dogleg Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Exit 99 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Mutt and Jeff, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Southeast Chimneys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Southwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spellcaster T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tiny Tim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

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Elevation:	7,274 ft	2,217 m
GPS:	45.7773, -112.63682 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	22,025 total · 225/month
Shared By:	Zach Wahrer on Feb 15, 2018
Admins:	GRK, Zach Wahrer Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15 Details

The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.

Description

The Wedge is a great sub-alpine climbing area with numerous routes up to 6 pitches in length. Grades run from 5.8 up to 5.12. Most of the climbing is on the northwest to southwest aspects. The lack of elevation gain on the hike make this formation an enjoyable day trip.

Climbing on the Wedge is almost always adventurous and requires a diverse skill set. You'll encounter slabs, roofs, cracks, run-outs, traverses, various kinds of animal poop, ancient hardware, and an exciting descent. Overall, the climbing is fun and the stone solid. Definitely worth the hike.

Getting There

From the Moose Creek Trailhead, pass the outhouse and cross the creek on a small bridge. The trail follows the creek, crossing meadows for a mile and a half until it goes back over the creek. Continue following the main creek for 10-15 minutes. You will come to a sharp right turn uphill to get into another drainage leading up to a meadow. From this point you can finally see the Wedge. At the far end of the meadow are the remains of a cabin. Continue past the cabin to the base of The Wedge.

Total hike is about 4 miles, with very little elevation gain.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Wedge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 108 ● The Mutt and Jeff Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 33 ● Southwest Face Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 13 ● Southeast Chimneys Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 11 ● Tiny Tim Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 20 ● Dogleg Crack Trad 2 pitches