Col de Bavella Rock Climbing

For most folks, Col de Bavella and the surrounding environs are the crown jewel of climbing on Corsica. Bavella is where the stunning route “Jeef” on Punta di U Corbu lives.

Known for its high profile and quite “adult” sporty big routes, it might be surprising to learn that the Col de Bavella has climbing for all abilities. This location could host a several week climbing trip (and then some).

Dozens of multi pitch classics and over 100 sport routes are hosted by this fine area. Unless confined solely to sports climbing, a set of 60m ropes, a bunch of shoulder length slings, a set of nuts and a set of cams should prove useful.

For some routes, the crux may well be the approach. A machete and flame thrower have been described as useful for any off trail travel (!). The maquis can be fierce…

A good initiation spot for sport climbing is right at the Col. Sectors Filetta, Margheritta, La Tarella, Mursella, Oriu, Nuca, Prugnola, Campanella, etc, have a variety of routes from easy to harder. Plenty to do here for a number of days and the approach trails are pretty straightforward.

A few of the better known multi pitch venues:

Punta di u Corbu:

Le dos de L’éléphant - 280 m, 6b+, 6a+obl, 9 pitches
Jeef – 280m, 7b+, 6b obl, 10 pitches
Delicatessen – 150m, 8b, 6c obl, 7 pitches

Punta di u Peru:

Voie Haddad - 240 m, 6b+, 6a obl, 7 pitches
U Companieru – 150m, 5c obl, 5 pitches

Punta Chjapponu:

Linéa d'Ombra – 200m, 6b+, 6a+ obl, 6 pitches

Castellucciu d’Ornuccio:

Voie Perillat - 200 m, 5+, 6 pitches
Le Nouveau Monde – 200m, 6a, 8 pitches

Teghie Lisce:

Acqua in Bocca – 300m, 7a, 6b obl, 10 pitches
Invitation au Voyage - 250m, 6a+, 5c obl, 8 pitches
Abbastanza – 300m, 7a+, 6b+ obl, 9 pitches

Orgui d’u San Petru:

La Lune Dans le Caniveau – 180m, 7a, 6c obl, 5 pitches
Lilith – 200m, 6c, 6b obl, 5 pitches
Canistrelli – 200m, 6a, 5 pitches

Punta Lunarda:

Anima Corsa – 250m, 6b, 6a obl, 12 pitches