McKinley Rock Rock Climbing

McKinley Rock is a 350 ft high dome-like andesitic dike formation at the top of Steamboat watershed on the Umpqua National Forest. From the summit register you'll have a view of Mt. Thielsen and Bailey.

There are 10 establish routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.10d. The rock is very coarse grained providing excellent friction. The closes description of the texture I can think of for comparison is the quartz monzonite at Joshua Tree. Totally different rocks with similar texture.

For the most part routes are bolted in 1980's "alpine" style with an average distance between bolts of about 10 feet and 50 m pitches. The two exceptions are Terminator which is a 30 m sport route with an average bolt spacing of about 6 feet, and a traditional crack climb on the first pitch (5.8) of Testosterone Monkey with gear placements from 1 to 4 inches. Note that the first 50 feet of routes on the east side of the south face can be a little mossy, particularly on the shaddowy start of Wipeout and Easy Street which are more to the SE. Once dry the moss becomes less of a factor, but is fun to climb anyway.

If this is your first time to McKinley Rock I would recommend beginning on Easy Street (5.8 G) by way of Wilding-101 (5.10a G) or Hang Ten (5.10a PG13). PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

Descent: rappel from the register either ~80 ft down the backside (N) and a steep scramble, or a recommended 350 feet in three and a half 30 m rappels down the south side. For bailing on route: we recommend taking a 2nd rope and some cheap 1" tubular webbing as most belays are without chains. Or better yet, plan on upgrading a few of the existing belay hangers with chains while your there!

Guide Book: Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Umpqua. 2007. Editor: Greg Orton. Publisher: Mtn. 'N Air Books. Available: Ashland Outdoor Store, Ashland; Mountain Provisions, Ashland; While Away Books, Roseburg; Douglas County Trail Guides, Roseburg; Back Country Gear, Eugene, Amazon Books.

This rock still has a lot of potential for first ascents. Especially on the wide open wall between Big Balls In Cowtown and Testosterone Monkey.