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Emigrant Gulch Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Emigrant Gulch

Britney Spears Arête 2

Phat One Buttress 2

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Elevation:	6,385 ft	1,946 m
GPS:	45.28685, -110.68031 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	10,803 total · 116/month
Shared By:	Trevor Olson on Sep 6, 2017
Admins:	GRK, Zach Wahrer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Emigrant Gulch is a spectacular location for the aspiring alpine climber. The drive in is exciting, and can certainly be done better with a proper 4x4 rig. Otherwise it's not too far to walk if you don't have the ground clearance necessary. The climbs are a short approach from the road, but see little traffic. The approaches are not developed, and can be loose and slippery. Most of the climbs are very runout but relatively easy climbing. It's more "alpine" climbing in the sense that caution should be taken. A rescue from this area could still be extraordinarily difficult even though it's 'close' to main roads.

The routes can certainly have loose rock. Be wary of climbers above you, and either wait for them to move out of the way, or climb something else. (Or take your chances...I guess that's your prerogative)

Getting There

From Livingston, drive south on Highway 89 until you reach a flashing yellow light at Emigrant. Turn to the west onto Murphy Ln and drive approximately 1 mile to the intersection with highway 540 (East River Road). Turn left here and drive another mile to a well signed turn off for Chico on the right. Take that right turn (Chico Rd.) and follow it past chico hot springs, where the road turns to dirt. Keep going until you hit the tiny little town of Chico, at which point you'll take a left onto Emigrant Creek Rd. Follow Emigrant Creek road through the even tinier "town" of White City and be on the lookout for when the road crosses Emigrant Creek. Either park at this bridge and start walking up the road, or brave the road in your 4x4 a little further until you see the obvious buttresses up and to your right. According to Google Maps, the distance from Chico Hot Springs to the approach trail is 4.3 Miles.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Emigrant Gulch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 7 ● Standard Route Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Phat One Buttress
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 14 ● Oops, I Did It Again Sport, Alpine 3 pitches Britney Spears Arête
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 5 ● Unknown Trad, TR, Alpine Britney Spears Arête