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The Dark Passenger Rock Climbing
Routes in 05. The Dark Passenger
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Dark Corridor (L) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Mirage (L) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Oasis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Say Nothing T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Theater of Pain (L) T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Viewfinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watching Me T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Watching You (L) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Way Back (L), The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Worlds Collide (L) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 2,123 ft | 647 m |
| GPS: |
43.91819, -71.58604 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 9,814 total · 112/month | |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Aug 30, 2017 | |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
I have been exploring the region between the Central Tongue and the Dark Side a bit and I turned up some pretty darn pleasant rock. Walking by on the trail you wouldn't know it but this section holds some perfect rock and as at least one route name implies, amazing views!
Seeing as this areas sits sort of, on top of parts of the Dark Side I think the Dark Passenger seems an appropriate name. The Dark Passenger itself is the small wall that sits on the ledge with a couple of hard climbs on it.
Some of the routes start from a comfortable tree ledge. I will mark these routes with an (L). The easiest ledge access is to either climb, Say Nothing (5.5) to a convenient anchor on the right side of the ledge. From the anchor it's an easy step left to be comfortably off belay. Or there is a trail from the base of Say Nothing and Watching Me that skirts the cliff left and then up the gully to the upper routes.
Hiking that trail or rappelling down Say Nothing is the easiest way back to the ground.
Seeing as this areas sits sort of, on top of parts of the Dark Side I think the Dark Passenger seems an appropriate name. The Dark Passenger itself is the small wall that sits on the ledge with a couple of hard climbs on it.
Some of the routes start from a comfortable tree ledge. I will mark these routes with an (L). The easiest ledge access is to either climb, Say Nothing (5.5) to a convenient anchor on the right side of the ledge. From the anchor it's an easy step left to be comfortably off belay. Or there is a trail from the base of Say Nothing and Watching Me that skirts the cliff left and then up the gully to the upper routes.
Hiking that trail or rappelling down Say Nothing is the easiest way back to the ground.
Getting There
One reason this section had been overlooked is that there is no obvious approach where you say, "There! I have arrived". But the easiest route to get to is View Finder 5.7, which Starts at the far left end of the Dark Side wall. Basically look for a flake heading up a short wall close to a large tree trunk at the extreme left end of the Dark Side. If you climb View Finder (2 pitches, 200ft) you will end up seeing some of the other rock in the area.
There are a collection of routes that start from a comfortable tree ledge 100+ feet up (these routes are marked with an (L). The easiest way to access that ledge is by climbing Say Nothing 5.5 to its anchor on the right end of the ledge. From that anchor a step to the left should get you comfortably off belay. You can also follow a trail from the base of Say Nothing and Watching Me skirting the cliff left and up a up the gully. This used to be a thrash but its been cleaned up a bit and it's not too bad if you just want to access the upper climbs.
There are a collection of routes that start from a comfortable tree ledge 100+ feet up (these routes are marked with an (L). The easiest way to access that ledge is by climbing Say Nothing 5.5 to its anchor on the right end of the ledge. From that anchor a step to the left should get you comfortably off belay. You can also follow a trail from the base of Say Nothing and Watching Me skirting the cliff left and up a up the gully. This used to be a thrash but its been cleaned up a bit and it's not too bad if you just want to access the upper climbs.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Dark Passenger
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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