Dorenaz Rock Climbing

This is a super-accessible and very nice little spot is great for both single pitch cragging (~55 routes) and has another ~50-60 moderate fun multi-pitch bolted routes (3-6 pitches), all quite easily accessible, particularly by train. In the cragging area, you'll often find climbing schools, but escaping the crowds is easy enough and the multi-pitch routes are excellent.

The cliffs face south and so not good for hot sunny days, and also good to know is that it is often quite windy there due to a natural constriction in the valley of the Rhone there.

The area can be divided into a three distinct areas. On one end (to climbers' left) is the cragging area, with a nice grassy area and picnic tables, all immediately adjacent to the road, with parking area right there.
Walk around the corner (southeast) about 100 yards, and you'll come to a gravel yard. Don't worry, it's just a storage area for gravel, not a mining site! There are a couple dozen 3-4 pitch routes in this sector. The rock is actually much better than it looks here.

Walk another 100 yards and you'll see a small field. Look up and left and you'll see a crag a few hundred yards uphill accessible by a small path through the field (marked with a yellow arrow signpost). This area is called Demi Lune (Half-Moon) and has ~20 routes from 1-3 pitches

Keep walking another ~100 yards along the road and you'll find a large trailhead sign. There is a well developed trail leading up and to the right. Take the other one! The climbers' trail starts to the left of the sign and rises steeply, and heading towards to cliff line. Parts are quite steep. After ~20 minutes you'll arrive at base of the cliff. On the left is the "Tichodrome" sector and another 200 yards further right and higher up is the "Verite" sector. Each has a half-dozen or so moderate 4-6 pitch routes. Finding routes is non-trivial, but many have the name written in paint at the base, so you know it when you find 'em!

To descend from these routes, walk off left or rap. Note the walk off trail is non-trivial to find. Great high-definition topo maps are available (with GPS tracking) at map.geo.admin.ch and the decent trail is indicated on it.

A climbing guide is available via a free app here:
itunes.apple.com/ch/app/les…
or here:
play.google.com/store/apps/…

Routes range from ~5.7 to ~5.12 and all are well bolted (even a PERFECT fingers/hand crack!) A 70 meter rope is required for some rappels.