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Sacajawea Peak (North Face Routes) Climbing
Routes in Sacajawea Peak (North Face Routes)
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Broken Wings T WI5 |
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Grand Central Couloir T WI4 M5 R |
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Left Ventricle WI3 Steep Snow R |
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Right Ventricle T WI4 M3 Steep Snow PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 11,936 ft | 3,638 m |
| GPS: |
44.12573, -113.7758 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 8,031 total · 88/month | |
| Shared By: | Joe Crane on Jun 19, 2017 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
The north face of Sacajawea Peak is a complex face of narrow chimneys and couloirs. Ice sometimes forms as snow melt drips down over various chock stones and into the chimneys.
Rock fall and avalanche hazard on this face can be significant. If climbing one of the ice routes, it is best to wait for a cold day or two immediately after a warm spell (usually in late May or early June) which will help in the formation of ice, clean out some of the avalanche danger, and keep things glued together.
Rock fall and avalanche hazard on this face can be significant. If climbing one of the ice routes, it is best to wait for a cold day or two immediately after a warm spell (usually in late May or early June) which will help in the formation of ice, clean out some of the avalanche danger, and keep things glued together.
Getting There
Approach to the north face of Sacajawea Peak can be made in two ways.
1. Ascend the standard Mt. Borah route past Chicken Out Ridge until you reach the saddle before making the final climb. From the saddle, descend to the east via the large scree or snow slope until you are directly below the north face. The east face below the saddle has several short cliffs. It is best to go all the way to the northern end of the saddle before beginning the descent.
2. Begin at the West Fork Upper Pahsimeroi Trailhead at the end of the national forest service road NF-118. Hike up the hill to the west of the road and continue up through the trees and meadows until you can see the various cliff bands along Sacajawea's long east ridge. The route, Gold Digger, can be seen directly above the first big lake. Continue up past the second lake until reaching the base of the north face.
1. Ascend the standard Mt. Borah route past Chicken Out Ridge until you reach the saddle before making the final climb. From the saddle, descend to the east via the large scree or snow slope until you are directly below the north face. The east face below the saddle has several short cliffs. It is best to go all the way to the northern end of the saddle before beginning the descent.
- Be extra cautious of avalanche conditions when descending this snow slope whether it is used as an approach or as a descent back to the base.
2. Begin at the West Fork Upper Pahsimeroi Trailhead at the end of the national forest service road NF-118. Hike up the hill to the west of the road and continue up through the trees and meadows until you can see the various cliff bands along Sacajawea's long east ridge. The route, Gold Digger, can be seen directly above the first big lake. Continue up past the second lake until reaching the base of the north face.
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