PRINT: Rock Climbing in Cal Trans Wall, Lake Tahoe

Cal Trans Wall

California > Lake Tahoe > S Shore > Meyers Area

Description

WARNING: These routes are almost precisely 30 meters and can be climbed with a 60 meter rope, but TIE A STOPPER KNOT on the end of the rope and mind your positioning (stand close to the wall) as you lower your climber to the ground so as to not run the end of the rope through the belay device!

Moderate, low angle slab. Well protected sport. Ranging from 5.6-8.

You can climb everything here with a 60 m rope and 10 quick draws.

Getting There

The mountain biking trail from the rusted green gate parallels the crag for a bit and then heads straight toward the hill before veering right again. The trail to Cal Trans Wall peels off the mtb trail and goes straight up the hill. The start is not entirely obvious so keep an eye out. You'll head up between bushes to the base of the wall, starting at the Right side and continuing to the climber's Left. Fun low angle slab 5.6-5.8.

If you continue to the far Left of the base of the crag you'll see a fixed line that goes up 3rd class slab and continues toward the multipitch routes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 19 ● 4X4 Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 23 ● Slippery When Wet Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 26 ● Chain Control Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 25 ● R2_ Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 15 ● R1_ Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 5 ● Sitting on Shovels Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 3 ● Sitting On The Shoulder Sport

● 4X4

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport

● Slippery When Wet

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport

● Chain Control

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport

● R2_

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

● R1_

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport

● Sitting on Shovels

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport

● Sitting On The Shoulder

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

You know you're on the right climbers trail when you come across the human feces

From this clearing, keep your eyes right and you'll find a small climbers trail switching through the manzanita brush. This will bring you to the base of the wall.

Perspective from the small landing looking back at staircase like feature. From here you'll see bolts from
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The furthest right climb.

Perspective from the small landing looking back at staircase like feature. From here you'll see bolts from The furthest right climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Simon Leigh
SF, CA

Some routes still getting water run off as of mid june 2019 - R2 and 4x4 were dry, R1 and slippery when wet were partly wet and chain control was thoroughly wet. Chain control seems to have the highest anchor and maybe the best choice for accessing the mulitpitch above. If it's wet though you can climb R2 and then traverse up and over to the chain control anchor. If you're not confident with the slab above then I would push another 10 feet beyond the chain control anchor and belay from a tree. All these routes are all about friction.

Note that the trail to the area hits the wall to the right of the climbing area, head 50ft up and along the base of the wall to find the routes which are all close together. Jun 11, 2019

Steve Stoddard
Flagstaff, AZ

Easy approach from road. Follow the approach for “Meyers Multipitch” which is provided in the app as a bright yellow trail. You will cut off pretty quickly at prominent fork after a small clearing and find yourself arriving beneath the wall. Skirt the wall to your right and you’ll find a small ledge with a staircase like formation going back up to the left. The start of each route comes down to this staircase feature.

Overall, a pretty underwhelming spot. Access is nice and can be very nice for someone learning to lead on sport or a beginner. But the climbing is honestly somewhat lame. Extremely slabby and polished in areas. In my opinion, not entirely worth the trip out there. Oct 5, 2020