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Strawberry Peak

California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles National Forest

Description

The Northface of Strawberry Peak was discovered in 1936 by John Mendenhall. John and Ruth Mendenhall lead nine trips to establish routes on the face with the Sierra Climb Rock Climbing Section (RCS) from 1936 to 1943 as noted in old issues of the Mugelnoos. Ray Palmer and Keith Leaman made several attempts before climbing the whole face in 1968. Their route was mostly run out face climbing, with marginal protection, and a small crux roof on the first of about 5 pitches. Ray called the route "Godzilla's Revenge". Virgil Shields and Ben Chapman made an ascent in five pitches on the right side of the face in 1983 and can attest to the poor rock quality and brutal bushwacking to the base. 

Getting There

When Ray and I climbed the north face we approached the climb from the north side-Camp Colby. Others may know the current best approach. Alternately, hiking in from Red Box off Angeles Forest Highway is straight forward and negates the bushwhacking required from the north side. 

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A route Ray Palmer and I did in 1968-69.
[Hide Photo] A route Ray Palmer and I did in 1968-69.
Ray Palmer starting the first pitch of "Godzilla's Revenge" in 1969 - a short traverse to the "Goose neck" corner. (not quite this steep).
[Hide Photo] Ray Palmer starting the first pitch of "Godzilla's Revenge" in 1969 - a short traverse to the "Goose neck" corner. (not quite this steep).
Strawberry Peak, Angeles NF
[Hide Photo] Strawberry Peak, Angeles NF
Strawberry Peak summit register.
[Hide Photo] Strawberry Peak summit register.
If you're considering the north face of Strawberry Peak know that it is a house of cards with a plethora a death blocks. In addition, the widow makers left in the wake of the Station Fire (2009), makes an ascent of the north face even more treacherous.
[Hide Photo] If you're considering the north face of Strawberry Peak know that it is a house of cards with a plethora a death blocks. In addition, the widow makers left in the wake of the Station Fire (2009), m…
There's no mistaking the summit of Strawberry Peak.
[Hide Photo] There's no mistaking the summit of Strawberry Peak.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
[Hide Comment] Cool to see you guys put info up on this.

I climbed the first pitch of Godzilla a few years ago. I climbed the route to the right (Buttress of the Winter Wind) a few pitches up on two occasions, once solo. Second time (solo) I saw the first pitch anchors were beat to hell from rockfall, which appears to have come from a roof above, which spilled loosed rock chips all over the routes below. Aug 17, 2018