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4. Guide's Wall Ice Climbs
New Hampshire
> NH Ice & Mixed
> N Conway Area
> Whitehorse Ice Climbs
Description
A fairly consistent 3- to 3+ 50-70 ft high flow that is only about 15 minutes from the car and which has access for top roping. I'm not sure why it isn't more popular, except that Cathedral's "North End" is so close.
If you go around to the right, scramble up some talus and climb left you'll be able to get to the top of the flows if there is a desire to not have to lead the climbs.
Although called "Guide's Wall" it is actually just "on the way to" the summer climbing area of the same name.
Although there isn't much sun, the area is very well protected from northwest winds and thus makes a good spot on those windy, cold days.
Getting There
From the Hotel take the climbers path into the woods and in about 75 ft turn right (north) onto the yellow-blazed trail. Almost immediately you'll cross a tiny stream. About another 2 minutes look left and you'll see a snow or ice flow up and left. That's NOT the ice you're going for, but it's a "signpost". Here, leave the trail and take a 45 degree angle up and left. You should pass a 10-12 ft high cubical boulder [photo] in a few minutes (and also pass that first ice flow).
You should see the ice in front of you about 100 yds away.
If you miss the first place to turn off, the yellow-blazed trail will drop down and cross a wide gully in another 2-3 minutes; just turn left and hike up this to the ice.
Routes from Left to Right
[Hide Photo] RH approaching the Guide's Wall Ice
[Hide Photo] You'll pass by this non-descript slab on your left on the way to the Guide's Wall Ice