1-Farquhar Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 7,190 ft | 2,192 m |
GPS: |
37.81363, -119.10839 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 2,046 total · 20/month | |
Shared By: | kenr on Aug 8, 2016 | |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Left-most sector of the main wall of Rush. Faces WSW.
Left side is shorter but mostly steeper than vertical. Right side is taller and (as of 2016) has one 2-bolt anchor, but no intermediate bolts going up to it -- presumably intended as a
Trad lead route, but (as of August 2016) its difficulty and protection are unknown, and we're eager to learn its Name + FA history.
Top-Roping: Can access the top by scrambling up around the left (N) end, a bit exposed on sloping ramps.
Name: Francis Farquhar did some worthy Sierra climbing of his own, but his big contribution was organizing and writing to enable others to get into Sierra climbing. Started his own accounting firm in San Francisco after moving from the East. In addition to becoming a leader of the California accounting profession, he was the editor of the Sierra Club Bulletin and writer of many articles and then books supporting Sierra mountaineering. Also leader of the Sierra Club, and made the key decision to introduce techniques of roped climbing to the Sierra summer 1931 High Trip.
. . (previous name: "Papillons" was for the Arete des Papillons, a fun popular 5.8-5.9 route on the Aiguille du Peigne -- located on the "front" (W) side of the Chamonix needles, overlooking the main valley. Easily reached as a single-day outing from the Plan d'Aiguille mid-station of the mechanical lift.
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Left side is shorter but mostly steeper than vertical. Right side is taller and (as of 2016) has one 2-bolt anchor, but no intermediate bolts going up to it -- presumably intended as a
Trad lead route, but (as of August 2016) its difficulty and protection are unknown, and we're eager to learn its Name + FA history.
Top-Roping: Can access the top by scrambling up around the left (N) end, a bit exposed on sloping ramps.
Name: Francis Farquhar did some worthy Sierra climbing of his own, but his big contribution was organizing and writing to enable others to get into Sierra climbing. Started his own accounting firm in San Francisco after moving from the East. In addition to becoming a leader of the California accounting profession, he was the editor of the Sierra Club Bulletin and writer of many articles and then books supporting Sierra mountaineering. Also leader of the Sierra Club, and made the key decision to introduce techniques of roped climbing to the Sierra summer 1931 High Trip.
. . (previous name: "Papillons" was for the Arete des Papillons, a fun popular 5.8-5.9 route on the Aiguille du Peigne -- located on the "front" (W) side of the Chamonix needles, overlooking the main valley. Easily reached as a single-day outing from the Plan d'Aiguille mid-station of the mechanical lift.
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Getting There
Follow the instructions on the Rush area description page to reach sector 7 Midi. Then turn Left and walk/scramble N about 700 feet (with some ups + steep downs) to reach this sector. (10-20 minutes)
Or at times of low water flow in Rush Creek, consider the "Alternate hiking/wading approach" described further down on the Rush area description page.
--> see Map
--> see Photo overview from NW
GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Rush crag
Or at times of low water flow in Rush Creek, consider the "Alternate hiking/wading approach" described further down on the Rush area description page.
--> see Map
--> see Photo overview from NW
GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Rush crag
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