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Teakettle Mountain

Colorado > Alpine Rock > San Juans > Northern San Juans (S…

Description

Teakettle Mountain is a seldom visited alpine peak with a technical summit block. It is ranked #98 in Colorado and #149 in the USA, which includes Alaska.

Gain the ridgeline between Coffeepot and Potosi, from the scree slopes below. Once on the ridge, a climber's trail can be followed. When I climbed Teakettle, I went up and down by a different path, on occasional game trails - nothing substantial. See the Southeast Ridge description for more information and photos.

Getting There

From the south of Ouray, take County Road 361, and drive 7.7 miles to the Yankee Boy Basin trailhead. Park near the biological waste conversion system. You can see the summit from here. See the photo.

Routes from Left to Right

Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow
 4
North Couloir (left)
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
 4
South Face
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
Tea Crack
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 9
Southeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Couloir (left)
 4
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
South Face
 4
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Tea Crack
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
Southeast Ridge
 9
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Scramble through the hole, then 5.4 free on the west.
[Hide Photo] Scramble through the hole, then 5.4 free on the west.
Pass Coffeepot on the left (south) side, to approach Teakettle.
[Hide Photo] Pass Coffeepot on the left (south) side, to approach Teakettle.
Teakettle is on the left. Cross the road and start your ascent.
[Hide Photo] Teakettle is on the left. Cross the road and start your ascent.
Some of the best San Juan views.
[Hide Photo] Some of the best San Juan views.
Teakettle summit.
[Hide Photo] Teakettle summit.