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Crag 6

Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

Crag 6 is one of the highest of the Ten Sleep climbing areas and not exactly IN the Canyon. With some stout bouldery climbs on the Mushroom Tip Wall and some long and strong climbs on the Rap Stars Wall, 5.12 & 5.13 climbers will be tickled by the quality of the climbing here. Unfortunately there are only a hand full of 5.10 & 5.11 climbs to warm up on which causes clusters on busier days.  This location is a great Summer hang on top of the peaceful Big Horn Mountains.

Getting There

Take Highway 16 1.75 miles past Meadowlark lodge and turn right onto high park road (15.95 miles from the rock ranch). The signage is not great for this road and it is easy to miss, so following the odometer is easiest. Follow this road for 4.25 miles, keeping left at every fork in the road. This road is very rutted out and is not in the best condition, so be cautious while driving it. Shortly after coming down a long gradual hill, look for a parking turn out on the left (currently a bunch of matted down grass, usually hosting several sprinter vans). Park here and follow the trail uphill and left heading back into the forest. You should pass a green electrical box on your right after about a quarter mile, right before the forest starts. Keep following this trail, head through a gate and up the hill, until you come to rap stars wall. Total hike is 1.21 miles.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Susan nearing the top of Thugagra. June 2022.
[Hide Photo] Susan nearing the top of Thugagra. June 2022.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Canyonclimber Mike
Casper WY
[Hide Comment] If you are looking for moderates and don't climb above 12a this area is limited. Small amount of climbs for moderate climbers. Gets crowded with very few people vying for the same warm-ups when the place gets in the shade. If you see more than 3-4 cars in the parking area be prepared to wait for climbs under 12a or try somewhere else. This may get better as new development is happening and people can spread out. Jun 23, 2018
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
[Hide Comment] Just FYI, the location listed here is NOT the location of the crag. Aug 20, 2018
Blake Beddow
Detroit
[Hide Comment] I see this crag was developed primarily by Mike Snyder and is also more recently developed. Do the routes here have heavily chipped holds like the new routes at Slavery and Funky Town? I’m not against climbing on chipped routes, just modern chipped routes. Thanks! Apr 27, 2019
[Hide Comment] Yes Blake, You should avoid Crag 6. It is below your standards. Apr 27, 2019
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
[Hide Comment] It's understandable to ask questions like that in light of recent developments in the canyon. I have been developing routes in the canyon for 20 years. Crag 6 was a big find for me and I put a lot of time into putting up routes there. I don't drill pockets, chip or use Sika (glue) when developing climbs. I've always taken pride in trying to do the best work I can to put up high quality fun and challenging routes. I always work with what the rock gives me and try to solve the puzzle of sewing it all together. I definitely comfortize which is totally in line with the standard we all agreed upon long ago when we started putting routes up in Ten Sleep. This is the way Big Horn Dolomite is and has been developed throughout Wyoming. Apr 28, 2019
Blake Beddow
Detroit
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the reply. Crag 6 looks like a great crag, and I hope to check it out this summer. I’ve climbed on the non-comfortized, blood thirsty holds of the dolomite boulders in Sinks Canyon, so I appreciate the work that goes into making this rock enjoyable to climb on. May 24, 2019
Brian Stevens
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] FOUND: your several-day-old wag bag that had been left behind the seating area of the mushroom tip wall. Happy to return it for a six-pack of Modelo or a gently used Petzl Spirit. Jul 23, 2023