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Crag 6
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Crag 6 is one of the highest of the Ten Sleep climbing areas and not exactly IN the Canyon. With some stout bouldery climbs on the Mushroom Tip Wall and some long and strong climbs on the Rap Stars Wall, 5.12 & 5.13 climbers will be tickled by the quality of the climbing here. Unfortunately there are only a hand full of 5.10 & 5.11 climbs to warm up on which causes clusters on busier days. This location is a great Summer hang on top of the peaceful Big Horn Mountains.
Getting There
Take Highway 16 1.75 miles past Meadowlark lodge and turn right onto high park road (15.95 miles from the rock ranch). The signage is not great for this road and it is easy to miss, so following the odometer is easiest. Follow this road for 4.25 miles, keeping left at every fork in the road. This road is very rutted out and is not in the best condition, so be cautious while driving it. Shortly after coming down a long gradual hill, look for a parking turn out on the left (currently a bunch of matted down grass, usually hosting several sprinter vans). Park here and follow the trail uphill and left heading back into the forest. You should pass a green electrical box on your right after about a quarter mile, right before the forest starts. Keep following this trail, head through a gate and up the hill, until you come to rap stars wall. Total hike is 1.21 miles.
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