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Bond Brook

Maine > g. Capital Region > Augusta bouldering

Description

This crag is about 30’ high and 30’ wide. The rock appears to be a metamorphic volcanic, with many incut horizontals. Watch out for loose rock and poison ivy. A geocache is located in a red plastic box under the right end of the crag, and shouldn’t be disturbed. There are two fixed anchors at the top, a chained tree on the left and a bolted anchor on the right. It’s fairly easy to scramble up the gully on the left (west) side to reach the top. On toprope, one can climb pretty much anywhere (assuming one can overcome the big overhang at the bottom). If leading, there are moderate routes on the left and right sides of the crag, with reasonable protection using a selection of cams from thin to 3”.

Getting There

Located on the north side of Bond Brook Road about a quarter-mile west of its intersection with Civic Center Drive. Park at a small dirt pullout on the north side of the road (right, when coming from Civic Center Drive), then walk about a hundred yards west and head more or less straight up the steep hillside about 200' to the base of the cliff.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Rope Drag
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 1
Doin' Great Sweaty
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rope Drag
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Doin' Great Sweaty
 1
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo of the wall. A pair of bolts at the top of the wall marked by the X. Easy to the top of the wall. A tree with a chain is there to help access.
[Hide Photo] Photo of the wall. A pair of bolts at the top of the wall marked by the X. Easy to the top of the wall. A tree with a chain is there to help access.
About halfway up the wall over hangs at the top and bottom
[Hide Photo] About halfway up the wall over hangs at the top and bottom
Short route perfect for an after work session in the capitol
[Hide Photo] Short route perfect for an after work session in the capitol
About halfway up the wall over hangs at the top and bottom
[Hide Photo] About halfway up the wall over hangs at the top and bottom

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dylan Day
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] My family and I checked this out today I'm not experienced enough to place a grade on it but I've never climbed anything harder then 5.8 and it seemed pretty easy, maybe 5.4 - 5.6. Anchors at the top are easy to access from the top, plenty of places for gear. We just top roped May 6, 2020