[Hide Photo] Another view of the three face climbs on the Northwest boulder (Left Side) viewed from the south. The Cleavage is the obvious chimney in the middle and there is a 5.8 face climb just to the right…
[Hide Photo] Left to Right Bat Crack 5.5, Arete to left Face 5.12c Back and top view of The Cleavage 5.4, Arete to the Right Face 5.11a
[Hide Photo] View of the backside ofCleavage Rock from the top of Little Eiger. Also includes the top of Edge Rock in the bottom left. This is looking down into the central area.
[Hide Comment] When you arrive at the crag, there are 3 ways to approach Cleavage Rock.
1) From the little meadow amongst the boulders (and at the top of a very shallow ravine) on the southwest corner, scramble up and to the left (Class 2/3). You will reach The Cleavage then if you go up a little more there is a nice flat belay area below the left side of the west face of the north rock. Keep going around clockwise to find Cote Memorial Wall on your right then round the corner to find some flat rocks to belay the Edge Rock routes (on your left) or East face routes of the Cleavage north rock (on your right). Then scramble down a short distance (Class 3) to see the eastern end of the Cleavage with Bat Crack on your right. To finish descending from Bat Crack requires a brief Class 4 scramble/downclimb then a Class 2 scramble down to the lunch/staging meadow.
2) From the little meadow, scramble up east, passing the face/slab climb on your left. Some Class 2 scrambling counter-clockwise around the southern end of Cleavage Rock followed by a big step up to the left (briefly Class 4?) will bring you to Bat Crack on your left. Another easy (Class 2 with one Class 3 move) scramble up brings you to the belay area for Edge Rock (and Freeway) on your right. Continue left around the north rock to find Cote Memorial Wall and the 5.8/5.9 face climbs, then scramble down (Class 2/3) to reach the Cleavage.
3) Take the climbers trail southeast around the crag, skirting the bouldering rocks. Climb up a steep path and you will end up east and uphill of the crag, at the top of Little Eiger. From there you have two ways down to the belay area for Edge Rock and Cleavage Rock. Either downclimb 15' on a big crack (5.3/V1?) or continue 20' north/counter-clockwise and scramble down (Class 2) through the trees. From that belay area, you can go to the right (Class 1) for Cote Memorial Wall and the west face of the north rock, followed by a short Class 2/3 down to the Cleavage. Or go left from the Edge Rock belay area and butt-slide/scramble down (Class 3) for Bat Crack. From Bat Crack, you can downclimb (briefly Class 4) back to the lunch meadow.
I added Fixe stainless steel rap rings to the anchors at the top of Cote Memorial Wall and quick links + rap rings to the middle bolt pair on the south side of Cleavage Rock. Hopefully they will stay there for a while. The rap rings added on the south side can really only be used to rap down the west face, not the east face (Bat Crack), since the anchors and rings are on the west side of the ridge edge.
Jan 21, 2020
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San Jose, CA
1) From the little meadow amongst the boulders (and at the top of a very shallow ravine) on the southwest corner, scramble up and to the left (Class 2/3). You will reach The Cleavage then if you go up a little more there is a nice flat belay area below the left side of the west face of the north rock. Keep going around clockwise to find Cote Memorial Wall on your right then round the corner to find some flat rocks to belay the Edge Rock routes (on your left) or East face routes of the Cleavage north rock (on your right). Then scramble down a short distance (Class 3) to see the eastern end of the Cleavage with Bat Crack on your right. To finish descending from Bat Crack requires a brief Class 4 scramble/downclimb then a Class 2 scramble down to the lunch/staging meadow.
2) From the little meadow, scramble up east, passing the face/slab climb on your left. Some Class 2 scrambling counter-clockwise around the southern end of Cleavage Rock followed by a big step up to the left (briefly Class 4?) will bring you to Bat Crack on your left. Another easy (Class 2 with one Class 3 move) scramble up brings you to the belay area for Edge Rock (and Freeway) on your right. Continue left around the north rock to find Cote Memorial Wall and the 5.8/5.9 face climbs, then scramble down (Class 2/3) to reach the Cleavage.
3) Take the climbers trail southeast around the crag, skirting the bouldering rocks. Climb up a steep path and you will end up east and uphill of the crag, at the top of Little Eiger. From there you have two ways down to the belay area for Edge Rock and Cleavage Rock. Either downclimb 15' on a big crack (5.3/V1?) or continue 20' north/counter-clockwise and scramble down (Class 2) through the trees. From that belay area, you can go to the right (Class 1) for Cote Memorial Wall and the west face of the north rock, followed by a short Class 2/3 down to the Cleavage. Or go left from the Edge Rock belay area and butt-slide/scramble down (Class 3) for Bat Crack. From Bat Crack, you can downclimb (briefly Class 4) back to the lunch meadow.
I added Fixe stainless steel rap rings to the anchors at the top of Cote Memorial Wall and quick links + rap rings to the middle bolt pair on the south side of Cleavage Rock. Hopefully they will stay there for a while. The rap rings added on the south side can really only be used to rap down the west face, not the east face (Bat Crack), since the anchors and rings are on the west side of the ridge edge. Jan 21, 2020