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Elevation: 5,922 ft 1,805 m
GPS: 40.44647, -111.69397
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Shared By: Neal Carroll on Aug 12, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane
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Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A one time sport climbing mecca, this area of American Fork has historical value as the beginning of limestone sport climbing in America. Thank you Boone Speed, Tim Wagner, Jeff Pedersen, Mike Call, Bill Boyle, Mike Beck...etc.

This is still the place to get honed in the SLC area. The routes are bouldery and steep and require good technical skills as well as crazy finger strength.

Classics include Hell, Malvado, El Diablo and Body Count.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive up American Fork Canyon (Alpine Loop Road/UT-92) until you pass the Timpanogos Cave National Monument. Drive another 0.65 miles passing the Hideaway parking on the left, and start to look for a large pullout on the right. It's marked by the green mile marker 11 sign. Park here, walk back the way you came, and cross the road. Just about 10-15 feet up the road from the green mile marker 11 sign on the west side of the pullout, you'll see a trail leading uphill passing a chossy dark wall. This trail will head right to the El Diablo Wall. From El Diablo, follow a trail south which wraps clockwise around the scree cone to reach the cave. This should be a good guide to get you started. See individual crags here for other directions.

64 Total Climbs

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Location: Hell Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Hell Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 123
● Reaching for Razors
Sport
Hell Wall
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 51
● El Diablo
Sport
El Diablo Wall
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 75
● Malvado
Sport
El Diablo Wall
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 51
● Melting
Sport
Hell Cave
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 61
● Hell
Sport
Hell Wall
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 40
● Burning
Sport
Hell Cave
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 21
● Wizards
Sport
Hell Cave
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 23
● Inferno
Sport
El Diablo Wall
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
● White Noise
Sport
El Diablo Wall
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
● Fryeing
Sport
Hell Cave
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 12
● High Water
Sport
Hell Wall
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 10
● Little G'
Sport
El Diablo Wall
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 6
● Cannibals
Sport
Hell Cave
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 12
● Body Count
Sport
El Diablo Wall
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 16
● Dead Souls
Sport
El Diablo Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Reaching for Razors Hell Wall
 123
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● El Diablo El Diablo Wall
 51
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Malvado El Diablo Wall
 75
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Melting Hell Cave
 51
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Hell Hell Wall
 61
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Burning Hell Cave
 40
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Wizards Hell Cave
 21
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Inferno El Diablo Wall
 23
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● White Noise El Diablo Wall
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Fryeing Hell Cave
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
● High Water Hell Wall
 12
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
● Little G' El Diablo Wall
 10
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
● Cannibals Hell Cave
 6
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
● Body Count El Diablo Wall
 12
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
● Dead Souls El Diablo Wall
 16
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hell Area »

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Photos

Here is a photo of the trail. This is taken from the parking area. It is not 150 feet from the parking area, unless you are walking from the far (east) end. It is about 10-15 feet up the road from the mile marker 11 sign.
Here is a photo of the trail. This is taken fro…
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