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Elevation: 70 ft 21 m
GPS: 64.49574, 10.81707
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Page Views: 73,942 total · 619/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Jul 13, 2015
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

Description Suggest change

This is quintessential granite sport clambering at it's finest. Relatively new, Flatanger has been under development only in the past two decades, and new routes are still going up, both in the cave, Hanshelleren, and elsewhere.

The climbing here can satisfy every appetite. There is cracked-out trad climbing, steep never-ending jug-hauling, slab, boulder problem test-pieces and arm-burning endurance rope-stretchers, as well as any other hyphenated appellation applied to climbing you can think of other than choss-pile. No matter the grade you climb, you will find awesome routes at Flatanger. This says nothing about the fact that the world's first 9b+ (Change) is located here, and new hard-hard first ascents are going up every year.

The most well known area is Hanshelleren (Han's cave for the non-Norwegian verbose among you), and boasts more than 50 routes from 5c to... too hard for you. Hanshelleren routes typically are past vertical to horizontal on bullet-hard, glacier-polished (statements like this may not be scientifically true) granite that is surprisingly grippy but doesn't wreck your poor tender skin like most granite. From my sampling of routes, expect lots of big sidepulls, liebacks, and underclings on smeary feet.

Come in the summer. The cave can seep when it rains heavily, which is annoying. You can expect hot temperatures in the convection-oven like cave in the full sun, but remember, you are close to the arctic circle. I had a great time climbing in the morning until the heat became oppressive, and then returning around 7pm and staying as long as my arms could take it. The sun never really sets in the summer. The biggest problem I've encountered is the tiny, biting flies. Your vital, exposed openings and airways will be swarmed by thousands of kamikaze and MEAN little sonsufbitches if it is not windy. I recommend investing in one of those goofy looking mesh hats, honestly.

On rest days, chill in the area, swim and fish for free in the ocean, and get groceries at Lausvnes.

Everyone camps at the farm in Strom (www.climbflatanger.com). Camping is technically free everywhere on undeveloped private land, but the ammenities(kitchen, showers, poopers, smelly barn) at the camping are worth the price ($10/night/person). If you are really fancy, you can stay in the farmhouse at double the price.

Getting There Suggest change

Fly in to Trondheim, rent a car and drive. Alternatively, figure out some form of public transportation (the busses and trains are good in Norway, the propensity to pick up hitchhikers, not so much).

87 Total Climbs

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Location: Flatanger Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Flatanger

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Akvarell
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Ukjent
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Gulrot tyven
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Ingwe
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Kakestykket
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Tungt møblement
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Espen Askeladd Soker Lykken
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Kykkeli
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Frigg
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Andre Hoyre
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Påltergeist
Sport
5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c
 6
Silence
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Akvarell Hanshelleren > Left Side
 4
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ukjent Hanshelleren > Left Side
 4
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gulrot tyven Hanshelleren > Left Side
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ingwe Hanshelleren > Left Side
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kakestykket Hanshelleren > Left Side
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Tungt møblement Hanshelleren > Left Side
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Espen Askeladd Soker Lykken Hanshelleren > Left Side
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Kykkeli Hanshelleren > Left Side
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Frigg Hanshelleren > Left Side
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Andre Hoyre Hanshelleren > Left Side
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Påltergeist Hanshelleren > Left Side
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Silence Hanshelleren > Cave Proper
 6
5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Flatanger »

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