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Dreamscape
California
> Southern-Wester…
> Hwy 41: Fresno…
> Shuteye Ridge
> Queen's Throne Area
Description
Nice variety of routes, with a huge concentration of moderate bolted routes.
Getting There
Leave the 2WD camp on the trail the goes North just before you enter the camp. After about 20-30 minutes of hiking, trend up and left on the slabs that are the backside of The Queen's Throne. Go through a gully and an enormous cave to reach the base of the cliff.
[Hide Photo] Ghost Turds 5.12c? bolts, gear to #3-4BD Just right of Rainbow Serpent(?) 5.12b (the crack section of Serpent is visible in upper left), and left of the 5.13 in Gram's book.
[Hide Photo] Mike Arechiga on a new 5.9 at Dreamscape Domes
[Hide Comment] We visited Dreamscape 8/31/2024, first time out there post Creek fire. Route finding is perhaps a little easier, but your moving through a significantly burned area. This area has always been a on the warmer side, but the climbing areas are now very much devoid of shade. There are really no trees shading where you belay or set out gear.
To add some color to the approach description, follow cairns from 2wd camp to where there is a creek crossing. Right before or after you cross the creek I'd recommend walking left (up river) around the mound of boulders directly in front of where you hit the creek. as you go around the cairns reappear going up the slabs. There may be cairns marking a trail up the creekside, but there are high ferns all the way up the creek so it's tricky to see. The creek looks like terrible bushwhacking, but it's not that bad. The alternative is to scramble straight up and over the mound and then meet the slab approach. This works, but is involved and you won't really see any route markers until your'e over the mound. the rest of the approach is well marked/easy to find the trail.
Sep 3, 2024
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To add some color to the approach description, follow cairns from 2wd camp to where there is a creek crossing. Right before or after you cross the creek I'd recommend walking left (up river) around the mound of boulders directly in front of where you hit the creek. as you go around the cairns reappear going up the slabs. There may be cairns marking a trail up the creekside, but there are high ferns all the way up the creek so it's tricky to see. The creek looks like terrible bushwhacking, but it's not that bad. The alternative is to scramble straight up and over the mound and then meet the slab approach. This works, but is involved and you won't really see any route markers until your'e over the mound. the rest of the approach is well marked/easy to find the trail. Sep 3, 2024