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Elevation: 12,598 ft 3,840 m
GPS: 37.41135, -118.78302
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Justin Johnsen on May 26, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Little Lakes Valley is another excellent high elevation starting point for day (and longer) excursions into the high Sierra. The road to the trailheads here takes one conveniently to 10,000 feet of elevation outside the snowy months, offering relatively easy access to Bear Creek Spire and neighboring alpine playgrounds. Recently alpine bouldering development has begun on the slopes of Mt. Morgan (South) for the adventurous pad warriors. Lodges, campgrounds and trailhead parking lots offer accommodations for various levels of expense.

Mono Recesses are a series of hanging valleys west of Mono Pass, the further west you go the less visited they get. Recess Peak is located over Mono Pass, although not a climbing destination Pioneer Basin is a wonderful high and relatively remote area, one of the hallmark High Sierra scenic destinations.

Getting There Suggest change

From highway 395 at Toms Place (don't blink and miss it!), drive south into the mountains on Rock Creek Road, winding between west and south to Rock Creek Lakes Resort.

Depending on your destination, you will either turn left on Rock Creek Lake Road for Tamarack Lakes trailhead, or continue on Rock Creek Road to Mono Pass trailhead at Mosquito Flat. Two trails start here; Little Lakes Valley and Mono Pass.

Main peaks of interest are:

Bear Creek Spire - Bear Creek and Little Lakes Valley Trail
Mount Dade - Little Lakes Valley Trail
Mount Gabb - Little Lakes Valley Trail
Mount Abbot - Little Lakes Valley Trail
Mount Mills - Little Lakes Valley Trail or Mono Pass Trail
Recess Peak - Mono Pass Trail


Campsites
Campsites for the main peaks in Little Lakes Valley can be; the west side of Long Lake, Treasure Lakes, or Dade Lake. Some routes can be handled in a long day by fit people.

Permits
Permits for this trailhead can be reserved here. Both Mono Pass and Little Lakes Valley are very popular, reserve early.

For backcountry skiers, the road is closed in winter, and parking can be had at a Rock Creek Sno-park. From there you can follow a groomed trail up to Mosquito Flats, then the wonderland of snow and mountains is your oyster. You'll need to display a permit which you can get here .

122 Total Climbs

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Location: 06 - Little Lakes Valley & Mono Recesses Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 06 - Little Lakes Valley & Mono Recesses

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 14
North Couloir
Trad, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 9
Summit Ridge traverse S->N
Trad, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 8
Nevahbe Ridge
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 5
Southwest Ridge
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 6
SSW Ridge low
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 7
East Ridge Indirect
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 4
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 180
Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
NNW Ridge direct
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow
 11
Southeast Face
Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 242
North Arete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
East Arete
Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
North Buttress
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 13
Pteradon
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 6
Shine On You Crazy Diamond
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Couloir Mt Abbot
 14
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Summit Ridge traverse S->N Mt Starr
 9
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Nevahbe Ridge Mt Morgan (North)
 8
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Southwest Ridge Treasure Peak
 5
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
SSW Ridge low Mt Starr
 6
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
East Ridge Indirect Ruby Peak
 7
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
South Ridge Pip-Squeak Spire
 4
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
Northeast Ridge Bear Creek Spire
 180
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
NNW Ridge direct Little Lakes Peak
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
Southeast Face Petit Griffon
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
North Arete Bear Creek Spire
 242
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
East Arete Bear Creek Spire
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
North Buttress Third Recess Peak
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Pteradon Ruby Peak
 13
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Shine On You Crazy Diamond Ruby Peak
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in 06 - Little Lakes Valley & Mono Recesses »

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