All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland South

Wonderland Valley Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Wonderland Valley

East Wonderland Valley 33 / 4 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 46

West Wonderland Valley 70 / 10 / 9 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 90

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Elevation:	4,200 ft	1,280 m
GPS:	34.04013, -116.14536 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	293,804 total · 2,531/month
Shared By:	C Miller on May 12, 2015
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The Wonderland Valley is a huge open area that is home to a wealth of quality climbs, which means that despite the hike involved you will no doubt run into others, particularly on busy weekends.

Because of the size of the area it has been broken into two separate sections:

East Wonderland Valley - Home to The Astro Domes, Foolproof Tower and Lenticular Dome and more.

West Wonderland Valley - Home to Freak Brothers Dome, Surprise Rock and The Red Obelisk and more.

Getting There

Approach via the South Wonderland Approach, and not long after passing The Creature the Foolproof Tower will come into view on your left - this is the Wonderland Valley. Please see the individual crags for more detailed approach information and plan on 35 minutes to 1 hour for the approach depending upon the crag chosen.

136 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 616 ● Mental Physics Trad 2 pitches W Wonderland Va… > Lenticular Dome
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 268 ● Breakfast of Champions Trad 2 pitches W Wonderland Va… > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 202 ● Dazed and Confused Trad W Wonderland Va… > Lenticular Dome
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 234 ● High Strung Trad W Wonderland Va… > Foolproof Tower
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 221 ● Figures on a Landscape (aka Monk… Trad 3 pitches W Wonderland Va… > … > N Astro Dome > N Astro Dome - Northe…
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 33 ● I Can't Believe It's a Girdle Trad 4 pitches E Wonderland Va… > Freak Brothers Dome
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 213 ● Solid Gold Trad 2 pitches W Wonderland Va… > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 80 ● Piggle Pugg Trad W Wonderland Va… > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 8 ● Astroturf Trad 2 pitches W Wonderland Va… > … > N Astro Dome > N Astro Dome - Northe…
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R 41 ● Such a Savage Trad 2 pitches W Wonderland Va… > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 12 ● Middle Age Crisis Sport W Wonderland Va… > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 10 ● Middle Age Crazy Trad W Wonderland Va… > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 5 ● Middle Age Savage Trad W Wonderland Va… > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 7 ● Gunslinger Trad 4 pitches W Wonderland Va… > … > N Astro Dome > N Astro Dome - Northe…
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a 4 ● Dihedron Trad, TR E Wonderland Va… > Pea Brain