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Lion Creek Drainage

Idaho > N Idaho > Selkirk Crest (American)

Description

Weekday closures for Summer 2022: Idaho Department of Lands will close Lion Creek Road #42 during the week through Oct 2022 due to logging. The closure will be in effect from Mondays at 12:01 a.m. through Fridays at 5 pm. Note: there is a sign posted at the entrance that says camping is prohibited, even on weekends, no exceptions". Plan accordingly and call the State Park or IDL to confirm the gate is open. 

Lion's Creek, just like the rest of the Selkirk Crest, has an incredible amount of potential climbing on incredible granite. While Lion's Creek is one of the, if not the most popular areas in the Selkirks for non-climbers due to the water slides, it is not as well known for climbing. However, there has been some relatively recent development happening amongst the very small group that climbs there. It should be noted that this area has HUGE potential for proud trad lines up beautiful domes and steep faces.

Lion's Creek is the stuff of dreams for a Selkirk climber. The approaches are short and typically easy, unlike most other areas within the crest. Of the known climbs in the immediate area, the approaches are all less than a mile. The Lion's Creek North Dome is only a couple hundred yards from the trailhead parking lot with a short bushwhack followed by another short boulder field climb to the base of the routes. Lion's Creek South Dome is across Lion's Creek and is accessed by a cairn marked talus traverse up to the base of the obvious slab.

Lion's Creek is also home to what may be the longest route in the Selkirks at this time, The Lion King, 15 bolted sport pitches with bolted belay stations. This route is on the Lion's Creek South Dome.

Weather is just like anywhere else in the Selkirks: it is alpine country and in the northwest so weather can change drastically and rapidly. Go prepared. That said, bailing off of a route here puts a climber much closer to the safety of the vehicle and trailhead than most other climbs in the region.

Due to the climbs being lower elevation here, nearer the valley floors, the summer heat can be more intense, but with the proximity of the creek it is easy to go cool off after a climb. The south facing aspects are sunny pretty much year round (during the climbing season at least) and the north facing aspects will receive sun through the summer months and early fall.

Early season and late season rains will see water on several routes due to the shape of the crags. The domes and shields tend to have water paths from runoff down them and can make for some interesting climbing at times.

As is the case with most climbing in the Selkirks, the rock quality is top notch granite, usually grey, white, and black with green, orange, and black lichen in places. There are a few pockets of slightly more brittle rock in places so be cautious of that.

Getting There

Basic directions: You are aiming for the Lion's Head Campground at the top of Priest Lake's NE shore. After that you're taking Lion's Creek Rd.#42 about 5 miles to the end which is commonly referred to as the waterslide parking.

Detailed directions: Drive to the town of Priest River, ID by taking either HWY 2 thru Newport or HWY 95 from Sandpoint. Take the turn for HWY 57 North for 27 miles and make a right turn on Dickensheet Rd following signs to Coolin and Priest Lake. At the town of Coolin, ID look for the Moose Knuckle Restaurant (doubling as a gas station/mini-mart) and make a right on to East Shore Rd. Follow East Shore Rd along the incredibly beautiful Lower Priest Lake for 20 miles until you see Lion's Head Campground and beach of Mosquito Bay (fee area) on your left. Here you'll turn turn right and head up Lion's Creek Road #42 This is a maintained dirt road and in 2022 logging activity widened the road significant and a high clearance vehicle is no longer needed (that said, watch for the deep grade dips to avoid bottoming out your vehicle)..

There are plenty of camping spots in the area as well. If you want developed camping with water and such, camp down at the Lion's Creek campground at the base of the road on the lake. Otherwise, camping is free once on the Lion's Creek road.

Bring mosquito repellent, as the little buggers are hummingbird sized and aggressive in the Selkirks.

Lion's Creek is easy to access and is very popular during summer months. As always please pack out what you pack in. There is already far too much evidence of humans up this creek due to the non-climbing community. Let's try to keep this area open by not destroying it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Watch them rope eating goats!
[Hide Photo] Watch them rope eating goats!
Slabs above camp
[Hide Photo] Slabs above camp
Great camp spots.
[Hide Photo] Great camp spots.
Incredible views of Lion's Head valley and Priest Lake from the top of pitch 9
[Hide Photo] Incredible views of Lion's Head valley and Priest Lake from the top of pitch 9
View from the south dome with the parking area visible below and Priest Lake in the background
[Hide Photo] View from the south dome with the parking area visible below and Priest Lake in the background

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Volwiler
Spokane
[Hide Comment] The note about trad only and no bolting is incorrect. There are multiple bolt only lines up the Lions Creek Slab. The lines I speak of are the 10 pitch route noted in the description and the 5 pitch 5.6 on the lower apron. There are also now two new trad lines up there but many times the cracks disappear and unless you are willing to run it out 50 feet, bolts are needed. As a side note don't leave your ropes hanging for the night. The goats will literally eat anything. Jun 15, 2018
[Hide Comment] Kelty, it sounds like you were on my climbing partner’s new route he has been working on this season. His name is Ben Read. I know he isn’t finished with the project yet but you might ask him about beta, etc. Aug 13, 2019
Ben T
Spirit Lake