Spring Mountain
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Darrington & Mt…
> Darrington
Description
Spring Mountain started development in the mid 2000's. There has been more than 2 dozen routes put up so far, most of them are 2 or more pitches and 5.10 or less. The climbing varies greatly, from face climbing slab, to a couple overhanging cracks. Spring Mountain has so much more growth potential.
The crag has two general areas. The Main Wall and the Dodge Dart Area. The routes are pretty well bolted, but they are not sport routes. Gear is required to protect parts of each route. The walls are south facing so they will get sun all day. During the summer it is said that it can get pretty hot and humid here. The best time of year to climb is spring and fall with cooler temperatures and less vegetation.
Some of the classics are: Wild Rosy, The Other Side of the Tracks, Erocktica, and Romantica.
The rock is Tonalitic Orthogneiss. Which is a granite with more than 20% quartz. Giving it a very rough texture perfect for climbing.
Spring mountain hasn't come on to many climbers radars yet. So to escape the crowds, Spring mountain is a great place to go do some climbing. But this has also been its undoing. As that without the traffic, the routes tend to be retaken by the moss. Thanks to the dedication of the route developers and their continuing route cleaning and trail maintenance, this awesome rock has not disappeared back into the wilderness.
A Campsite is at the trailhead for parties that want to camp out and spent a couple days climbing/hiking. Another campsite with a beach is about a half mile further up the road.
Getting There
From Darrington, head south on Mountain Loop Hwy for approximately 16 miles, the pavement ends around 8-9 miles. Then turning left on FS 49. Drive another 2.5 miles. There will be a pullout with a campsite. Park here and head up the well worn trail across the road from the pullout. The approach hike is about 20 minutes.
From the pullout, follow the well worn trail to the boulders. Shortly after passing the Coltrane Crack boulder, you'll see a sign pointing up and right. This will take you to the right side of a mossy cluster of large boulders. (Listed as Unknown Boulders on Lucid Boulders Map).
Trail Direction Picture
Just past the boulder, you'll come to another sign showing you the trail to follow uphill. From here, the trail is pretty straight forward going uphill with minor zig zagging.
Passed the boulders picture
As you make your way, you'll come to the split to where you can continue up to the Cloven Roof/Romantica/Upper Slabs, or go left across the hillside to the Otherside of the Track and those further left.
Split Picture
The trail has been cleaned up as of April of 2021 and should be easy to follow. The "low bridges" have been removed.
![Spring Mountain Crag
<br>
Routes are approximate]()
[Hide Photo] Spring Mountain Crag Routes are approximate
![Spring Mountain Climbs (as of 2009)<br>
1) Trophy Wife 5.10b<br>
2) Ultimtum 5.9<br>
3) Wild Rosy 5.10+<br>
3.5) Pastor of Muppet 5.10a<br>
4) Other Side of the Tracks 5.10b<br>
5) Erocktica 5.10a (30 meter descent route to the right)<br>
5.5) Rolling Thunder 5.9<br>
6) Non-Ultra Project<br>
7) Cloven Hoof 5.9<br>
8) Straight Creek Boogie 5.8+/5.9<br>
9) By Invitation 5.8?<br>
10) Romantica 5.10b/c<br>
11) TickTock 5.10b<br>
12) Juggernaut Project<br>
13) Dodge Dart 5.8+<br>
14) Shapely Apes 5.7<br>
15) 5.11 Project (currently open, anchors at top)<br>
16) Regularis 5.9<br>
17) 5.11 Project (roof, Arete)<br>
18) Strawberry Creampuff - Bolts up to beneath arch, looks friable beyond, nice dry portaledge hangout<br>
19) Williams/Karner A3<br>
<br>
Provided by Mark Hanna, used with permission.]()
[Hide Photo] Spring Mountain Climbs (as of 2009) 1) Trophy Wife 5.10b 2) Ultimtum 5.9 3) Wild Rosy 5.10+ 3.5) Pastor of Muppet 5.10a 4) Other Side of the Tracks 5.10b 5) Erocktica 5.10a (30 meter descent…
![Spring Mtn approach direction]()
[Hide Photo] Spring Mtn approach direction
![The trail to get to the crag is on the right. Follow the pink flagging!!]()
[Hide Photo] The trail to get to the crag is on the right. Follow the pink flagging!!
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Redmond, WA
Bellingham, WA
Lake Stevens, WA
Other Side of the Tracks is dirty and still pretty wet on Pitch 1. We backed off pretty quickly.
Wild Rosy is dirty but doable, at least for Pitch 1. Backed off after P1, as my partner couldn't locate the second bolt on Pitch 1.
Trophy Wife is definitely still too wet to attempt to climb.
Bring a scrub brush for your next visit to Spring Mountain! May 27, 2017
Huntington, VT
Lake Stevens, WA
Please don't follow the pink flagging leaving the Lucid Boulders. it is not flagging the trail.
But it is correct above the twin cairns. Apr 29, 2021
Seattle
Seattle