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Elevation: 5,082 ft 1,549 m
GPS: 47.44576, -121.45477
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 76,827 total · 618/month
Shared By: Chris Simmons-Solomon on Feb 22, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

Description Suggest change

Rocky peak just northwest of the Alpental ski area, on the Chair Peak ridge. This is probably the most popular summit rock climb in the Cascades, so beware of crowds and Mountaineers training climbs, but there's more than one worthy route to climb on any given day. Rock is volcanic and generally good.

Getting There Suggest change

Summer - Hike up the main trail until reaching a sign designating the start of the Source Lake Overlook trail. Take this trail, which minimizes elevation loss, to the valley to the south below the east face of The Tooth. There is a good climbers path with cairns to guide you.

Winter - Hike up the main trail all the way to Source Lake, then turn south in the valley. Hike up the valley until you are below the east face of The Tooth. Due to significant avalanche danger there, do not follow the summer path.

9 Total Climbs

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Location: The Tooth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3 Mod. Snow
 7
● Northeast Slabs
Trad, Ice, Snow 5 pitches
Winter-Spring (ice, s…
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 263
● South Face
Trad 4 pitches
Summer-Fall (rock)
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 185
● The Tooth Fairy
Sport 6 pitches
Summer-Fall (rock)
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Northeast Slabs Winter-Spring (ice, s…
 7
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow 5 pitches
● South Face Summer-Fall (rock)
 263
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
● The Tooth Fairy Summer-Fall (rock)
 185
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Tooth »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Photos

View on the summit. Shot in June 2021
View on the summit. Shot in June 2021
 6
The Tooth viewed from across the choss bowl, to the southeast. Tree-covered ledge of south face route clearly visible.
The Tooth viewed from across the choss bowl, to…
 6
Down climbing the north ridge after soloing the south face
Down climbing the north ridge after soloing the…
 2
You are looking at the East Face of The Tooth with Pineapple pass (horned feature) on the left. Shot in June 2021
You are looking at the East Face of The Tooth w…
 2
Approach from the talus field. There is a small gap directly above the hiker's shoulder which can be scrambled up (4/5th class) or one can go around the next little peak and go around the backside to gain access to the first pitch. Helmet up!
Approach from the talus field. There is a small…
 2
The full jawline. The Tooth is the rightmost prominent spire.
The full jawline. The Tooth is the rightmost pr…
 3
Pineapple Basin. The Tooth (E Face) and Hemlock Peak
Pineapple Basin. The Tooth (E Face) and Hemlock…
 1
West side start tooth winter 91
West side start tooth winter 91
 4
Winter east face(upper variation) Tooth winter
Winter east face(upper variation) Tooth winter
 3
Beta on hold variances.
Beta on hold variances.
 2
You are viewing The Tooth from the Snow Lake approach. Shot in June of 2021
You are viewing The Tooth from the Snow Lake ap…
 1
If you were at the top on 9/27/20 @ 1:30pm, zoom in and there you are! Beautiful day, nice work!
If you were at the top on 9/27/20 @ 1:30pm, zoo…
 2

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