Interstate State Park Bouldering Climbing
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Elevation: | 1,311 ft | 400 m |
GPS: |
45.39795, -92.64749 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Shared By: | Kris Gorny on Feb 6, 2015 · Updates | |
Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
Access Issue: Climbing permits are required for all group and individual climbers at Interstate State Park. Permits are free, and must be renewed each year.
Details
Individual Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Individual permits are available year-round at the park office. Weekends in May and daily Memorial Day through mid-October, permits are also available at the visitor center. Individual climbing permits are also available at the self pay kiosk near the visitor center.
Commercial Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Organized groups are required to obtain a new commercial climbing permit each year. This requires submitting a certificate of insurance with required liability limits and naming the State Of Minnesota as an additional insured party. Application forms are available by calling the park office at 651-539-4500. Requests for new commercial climbing permits should be submitted at least seven days prior to the climbing event to allow time to process the permit request.
dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
Minnesota State Parks strongly endorse a "clean climbing" philosophy. In all but very limited, pre-approved instances, placement of hardware will be limited to that which can be temporarily placed using the climber's fingers. All such protection must be placed and removed without altering the rock."
Individual permits are available year-round at the park office. Weekends in May and daily Memorial Day through mid-October, permits are also available at the visitor center. Individual climbing permits are also available at the self pay kiosk near the visitor center.
Commercial Rock Climbing Permits (free):
Organized groups are required to obtain a new commercial climbing permit each year. This requires submitting a certificate of insurance with required liability limits and naming the State Of Minnesota as an additional insured party. Application forms are available by calling the park office at 651-539-4500. Requests for new commercial climbing permits should be submitted at least seven days prior to the climbing event to allow time to process the permit request.
dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
Minnesota State Parks strongly endorse a "clean climbing" philosophy. In all but very limited, pre-approved instances, placement of hardware will be limited to that which can be temporarily placed using the climber's fingers. All such protection must be placed and removed without altering the rock."
Description
Taylors Falls Bouldering enjoys a long history extending at least into the 1970s. It has been a stable training and play grounds for Twin Cities and St. Croix River local climbers, as well as a popular destination for day-tripping Minneapolis-Saint Paul tourists.
The park is centered around a bend in the Saint Croix River and the "Potholes Trail," a series of rounded and polished holes worn over centuries from the basalt found in the park, and extending from inches across to 60 feet in diameter.
The climbing is renowned for it's smooth, polished rock, and infamous slopers, crimps, and poor feet. Numerous short crack routes/problems are found amongst very hard powerful crimp problems.
There are numerous classic problems in the Potholes, and almost every problem qualifies as good. There is endless VB bouldering along the Tourist Rocks area. Several sought-after ticks include B2 Bomber (V4, in the Boonyards, or B2 Pit), Slicksides (V0 crack highball), Lunge or Plunge (V4 throw from underclings), Nanhole (V0), Twinkletoes (V3, technical), and Left of Lloyds stand (V9? recently broken foot). One of the hardest lines in Minnesota, and the midwest for that matter, This Sporting Life (aka Left of Lloyds Sit, V12) can be found in the Boneyards Pit.
Bouldering can be had all year round, depending on the severity of the winter and snow, and your tolerance of cold toes. The dead of summer brings soupy humidity, and swarms of mosquitoes; bees can cover the sun-facing walls in August and September.
Numerous guidebooks have been attempted over the years, none of them ever formally published. Rumors persist of a "guidebook in the works," but for now, problems are found in the hearts of the old-timers locals and the imagination of the younger generation.
Please feel free to add any knowledge you have of bouldering history or established problems to this website.
A separate section exists for Wisconsin Taylors Falls/Interstate Park bouldering under the Wisconsin heading. Perhaps some day the two will be merged, but for the time being, they remain separate.
The park is centered around a bend in the Saint Croix River and the "Potholes Trail," a series of rounded and polished holes worn over centuries from the basalt found in the park, and extending from inches across to 60 feet in diameter.
The climbing is renowned for it's smooth, polished rock, and infamous slopers, crimps, and poor feet. Numerous short crack routes/problems are found amongst very hard powerful crimp problems.
There are numerous classic problems in the Potholes, and almost every problem qualifies as good. There is endless VB bouldering along the Tourist Rocks area. Several sought-after ticks include B2 Bomber (V4, in the Boonyards, or B2 Pit), Slicksides (V0 crack highball), Lunge or Plunge (V4 throw from underclings), Nanhole (V0), Twinkletoes (V3, technical), and Left of Lloyds stand (V9? recently broken foot). One of the hardest lines in Minnesota, and the midwest for that matter, This Sporting Life (aka Left of Lloyds Sit, V12) can be found in the Boneyards Pit.
Bouldering can be had all year round, depending on the severity of the winter and snow, and your tolerance of cold toes. The dead of summer brings soupy humidity, and swarms of mosquitoes; bees can cover the sun-facing walls in August and September.
Numerous guidebooks have been attempted over the years, none of them ever formally published. Rumors persist of a "guidebook in the works," but for now, problems are found in the hearts of the old-timers locals and the imagination of the younger generation.
Please feel free to add any knowledge you have of bouldering history or established problems to this website.
A separate section exists for Wisconsin Taylors Falls/Interstate Park bouldering under the Wisconsin heading. Perhaps some day the two will be merged, but for the time being, they remain separate.
Getting There
Taylors Falls State Park is found in Taylors Falls, Minnesota, immediately off the main road (State Highway 8), immediately west of the bridge into Wisconsin.
maps.google.com/maps?f=q&so…
Interstate Park Climbing Information and map from the DNR website.
Descriptions for problems are listed with each problem/sector.
Classic Climbing Routes at Interstate State Park Bouldering
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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