Marmolada Group Rock Climbing

Marmolada is the “Queen of the Dolomites.” This mountain is the highest mountain in the range, has the only permanent glacier in the range (north side) and has the largest sheer wall in the range (south face – 800 meters high, 3 kilometers long) with many famous and ground breaking routes on this face. The climbs here are so big that it is highly recommended you climb with a bivy sac as it is likely you will need one before the climb is over due to both the length of the routes and the descent required. The “best” descent is likely the cable car – 3 sections of tramway leading all the way to the Eastern base of the mountain. However, this tram closes at 4 pm so it can be difficult to catch on the day you start the climb (be sure to bring 20+ euros to use the tram). The other descent requires glacial travel for 3 or more hours (and all the gear and safety issues surrounding this aspect of climbing) making it somewhat unattractive to someone climbing 20-30 pitches of south facing rock. All these descents, except that which goes down the far western ridge back to the South side, take you away from the starting point adding further logistical issues to your plans (basically you should stay in Rifugio Falier or Refugio Contrin and bring only the gear and clothes you will use on the ascent).