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Spazzacaldeira

International > Europe > Switzerland > Albigna Valley

Description

A beautiful slab with some forty routes on it. It is the easiest wall to get to in the Albigna Valley, with an approach time of 5 minutes from the cable station. The routes vary from 5a to 7a+, with some easy gulleys and ridges in between. On the summit ridge, the famous Fiamma and Dente tower over the valley. Climbing those two peaks is a must-do!

Getting There

Park by the Albigna lift bottom station - (GPS lat long approx N46.3582 E9.6440) - which is on Switzerland national route 3 ...
E up from Italy / Switz frontier which is E up from city of Chiavenna near N end of the Como / Lecco Lakes,
or ...
SW gentle along Engadin lakes from cities of St Moritz and Silvaplana, then SW down steep from Maloja Pass. The lift parking is a bit NE above the town of Vicosoprano.
Lift operating summer hours 2019: morning 7:00-11:30 / afternoon 13:15-16:45

Top station of Albigna lift (N46.33792 E9.64563) has small waiting area, but no food or drink. Start down a little ramp to a wide road going about 0.3 mile rising gentle at first W curve right N then NW to reach a sharp turn Left. Many routes on Spazzacaldeira start near here.
To reach others next turn sharp Left walk rising gentle first SE then curve right to SSW (but next the road curves way Left away from Spazzacaldeira toward W end of dam).

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
● Via Leni 6b
Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● Lasciamilì 6a
Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
● Fuoco e Fiamma 6b
Sport, Alpine
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
● La Fiamma
Sport, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● Via Felice 6a
Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● Nasi Goreng 6a
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Steinfresser 6b
Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Via Leni 6b
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
● Lasciamilì 6a
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
● Northeast Ridge
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
● Fuoco e Fiamma 6b
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
● La Fiamma
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
● Via Felice 6a
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
● Nasi Goreng 6a
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
● Steinfresser 6b
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 5 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview of Spazzacaldeira, with the famous La Fiamma and Il Dente on the ridge. <br> <br> 1. Fiamma Via Sud 6a+ 8p<br> 2. Seifert 6b+ 3p<br> 3. Nebel des Grauens 7a (6b+ A0) 3p<br> 4. Via Leni 6a 5p<br> 5. Va Col Vento 6c+ 4p<br> 6. Tiramisu 6b 4p<br> 7. Piache Inferiori 7a (6b A0) 2p<br> 8. La Stria 6b<br> 9. Lasciamili 6a 7p<br> 10. Buttamigiu 6b 5p<br> 11. La Sirena 7a+ (A0) 5p<br> 12. Militärgratli (SE-ridge) 4a<br> 13. La Fiamma 5c+<br> 14. Il Dente Normalweg 6b<br> 15. NE-ridge 4c<br> 16. Giovanne d'Italia 7b<br> 17. Dente per Dente 6a<br> 18. Via Felici 6a<br> 19. Coco Driller 7a<br> 20. Gioca il Jolli 7a+<br> 21. Kind of Magic 7a<br> 22. Nasi Goreng 6a<br> 23. Golden Pillar 7a<br> 24. Teorie del Cele 6b+<br> 25. La Dama 7a<br> 26. Benno 6b<br> 27. Peperina 6a+<br> 28. Andamento Lento 5c<br> 29. Excalibur 6c<br> 30. La Colazione 7a+<br> 31. Daccapo 7a<br> 32. Steinfresser 6a+<br> 33. Gi-Emme 7a<br> 34. Nuova Via per Claudia 6a+/6b<br>
[Hide Photo] Overview of Spazzacaldeira, with the famous La Fiamma and Il Dente on the ridge. 1. Fiamma Via Sud 6a+ 8p 2. Seifert 6b+ 3p 3. Nebel des Grauens 7a (6b+ A0) 3p 4. Via Leni 6a 5p 5. Va Col V…
Spazzacaldeira from near the tram station.
[Hide Photo] Spazzacaldeira from near the tram station.
Spazzacaldeira from above the hut.
[Hide Photo] Spazzacaldeira from above the hut.