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Kauai

Hawaii

Description

Kauai: The Garden Isle.

While it is well known for being the surfing jewel of the pacific, as well as a honeymooner's paradise, few would associate Kauai with rock climbing. I would best describe the island as a giant pile of rock. Loose blocks, petrified mud, and rampant vegetation constitute the vast majority of the exposed rock the 552 sq. mile island has to offer. Rock scouting efforts prove difficult; what precious little stone there is lay guarded by the wildly undulating terrain, swampy humidity, tenacious mosquitoes, and erratic weather. Most of the legitimate multi pitch opportunities, stretched out along the sheer and crumbly cliffs along the Na Pali Coast, promise a quick death. Nevertheless, the garden isle is not without its fair share of plumb lines, and the adventure is waiting for those who are willing to endure some unique difficulties.

Kauai is an island of adventure in every aspect. Even the people who live here offer much to discover, and if you have ever wanted to awaken your 7th chakra or converse with entities from the 5th dimension, you are only a conversation or two away from a bonafide expert. The demographic itself has evolved into an ethnically eclectic medley of humanity, the numbers of which ebb in conjunction with the winter swells, which as the locals say, travel untouched thousands of miles straight from Russia. While the massive winter waves can light up the coasts with surfers and events, it makes climbing along the coast mostly inaccessible. The ocean claims many casualties every year, tragedies that are often preventable with a little more circumspection. You have been warned.

For the diehard rock fiend, the majority of the climbing experiences to be found on this island are interspersed along the beaches. Several oceanfront cliffs, hardened over centuries of erosion, offer puzzling climbing on secure, grippy rock. Excluding the Dragon's Breath area, these areas mostly offer cushy sand landings. Crash pad rentals are available per day or week (contact the author).

For those with a bit more cash and time to burn, the hallowed Na Pali Coast offers unforgettable Deep Water Soloing experiences. You will need to either kayak for several miles, or charter a boat.

Those looking for a roped experience had better be ready for an epic. When climbing on virgin rock here, be prepared for holds to pop off without reason, as well as entire blocks to shift or detach. While some of the hanging gardens of rock you'll discover on your journey around the island may seem crag-worthy, they are often no more than loose mud conglomerate, have utterly impassible access, or are constantly soaked. A bolted crag, (the only one of its kind on the island) at a limestone quarry is under negotiation to be rebolted and reopened to climbers. In order to maintain a positive rapport with the island, please consider cleaning up any trash you see as you climb, and keep music to a minimum.

I have created a Facebook group for any interested in climbing on this island: Kauai Rock Climbers (Facebook)

Getting There

The only airport on the island is in Lihue, near the south side. 

Community

I have created a Facebook group for any interested in climbing on this island: Kauai Rock Climbers (Facebook)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Excellent summer DWS on the north side of the island.
[Hide Photo] Excellent summer DWS on the north side of the island.
Oceanside bouldering on the Garden Isle!
[Hide Photo] Oceanside bouldering on the Garden Isle!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gummy F
Akron, OH
[Hide Comment] Anyone going to be in Kauai June 6, 2017- June 17, 2017? I am looking to put in some FA's on the rock OFF THE Na Pali Coast. Cheers! Nov 4, 2016
[Hide Comment] I'm currently in Kauai on the west side, Kekaha. Have been looking for reasonable quality rock to establish some routes. Although I have not found what I'm really looking for, I have found some possibilities. I will be on island till December 15th and the return again in February. If anyone is interested in climbing here and now please post. I have full kit and am ready to put up some routes. You must be experienced unless you just want to go bouldering. However, haven't seen any good bouldering, just route possibilities. Put up a quality 11c sport route here 15 years ago. Unfortunately, it is on private property and now the bolts are probably bad due to the salt air. Stainless or titanium glue-ins are the way to go. Next route will have these. Nov 17, 2016
Mark Ishmael
Lexington, KY
[Hide Comment] I just moved to Kauai and am looking for people to climb with. All of my gear is still on the mainland, but I'll be having it sent out soon. Contact me if you want to go climbing. Jul 29, 2018
Seth Brown
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Just moved to Lihue and have been checking out all of the spots listed on Mountain Project. I will be here for the foreseeable future if anyone wants to climb. I am from Salt Lake City and am experienced in bouldering, sport, trad, and multi-pitch. I'd be stoked to get out and on some rock with someone that knows the area! May 20, 2019
Eric Wright
Telluride, CO
[Hide Comment] Hey I am I Kauai for years off and on.
Let’s go climbing.
I have lots of gear.
Ropes, rack, Bosh, Fixe. Jun 6, 2021