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Basilisk Rock Climbing
Routes in 9. Basilisk
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Billy Get Your Guns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chopper Noise T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chossy? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crankzilla T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dragon's Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Earth Dragon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fafnir T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flake n' Take TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzz, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Gentlemen Return Fire TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Hashtag, Swag, Yolo TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hound Dog TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Paper Mache TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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PROJECT T,TR 5.15c/d 9c 38 XIII- 40 E11 8c |
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Shit Load of Chips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Testicular Trauma T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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There is No Spoon TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Too Many Video Games TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Treehugger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Elevation: | 555 ft | 169 m |
| GPS: |
41.14576, -74.16786 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 25,591 total · 202/month | |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jul 14, 2014 | |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
One of the wider walls at Powerlinez, with lots of face climbing, some short cracks on the right.
Faces SSW, so often warm on winter afternoons, cool on summer mornings.
The flat area not far from the bottom of the cliff can be swampy -- so think about insect protection (or avoidance at times of likely high insect activity).
Top-Roping: Usually easiest with a long static line from a tree set back from the top of the cliff - (sometimes helps to rappel or down-climb a short ways below the top to set the carabiners lower so to avoid drag / abrasion of belay rope running over the top edge).
Some routes offer the alternative of building an anchor near the by placing multiple pieces of Trad protection gear.
Reach the top of the cliff by scrambling up around the left or right side.
Faces SSW, so often warm on winter afternoons, cool on summer mornings.
The flat area not far from the bottom of the cliff can be swampy -- so think about insect protection (or avoidance at times of likely high insect activity).
Top-Roping: Usually easiest with a long static line from a tree set back from the top of the cliff - (sometimes helps to rappel or down-climb a short ways below the top to set the carabiners lower so to avoid drag / abrasion of belay rope running over the top edge).
Some routes offer the alternative of building an anchor near the by placing multiple pieces of Trad protection gear.
Reach the top of the cliff by scrambling up around the left or right side.
Getting There
From the main trailhead hike N gentle uphill on the dirt road about 0.2 mile / 1000 feet to a junction with another dirt road. Turn sharp Left and go WSW about 0.1 mile / 500 feet to a fork in the road. The right fork is the Boulder Road. So take that at first steeper WNW, then gentler WSW. At first in the open, later under some trees and past the turn-off for the Good Book access trail, next curves more right NW.
After about 0.25 mile / 1400 feet (around GPS lat long N41.1454 W74.1678), a trail goes down left (west), but instead turn Right and head up steep hill with some rocks, North about 170 feet and find the notably wide wall of Basilisk.
Another way: From the junction (GPS lat long approx N41.1452 W74.1667) of Tower Wall tier trail and the Good Book access trail, walk roughly flat NorthWest about 325 feet on the Tower Wall tier trail and find the notably wide wall of Basilisk.
Yet another way: First go to Tower Wall then walk left roughly flat W + NW for about 0.15 mile (past the crossing of The Good Book access trail).
After about 0.25 mile / 1400 feet (around GPS lat long N41.1454 W74.1678), a trail goes down left (west), but instead turn Right and head up steep hill with some rocks, North about 170 feet and find the notably wide wall of Basilisk.
Another way: From the junction (GPS lat long approx N41.1452 W74.1667) of Tower Wall tier trail and the Good Book access trail, walk roughly flat NorthWest about 325 feet on the Tower Wall tier trail and find the notably wide wall of Basilisk.
Yet another way: First go to Tower Wall then walk left roughly flat W + NW for about 0.15 mile (past the crossing of The Good Book access trail).
Classic Climbing Routes at Basilisk
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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