Main Crag Rock Climbing

Craig Spaulding and Paul Corridon have spent a lot of time and energy into putting together an incredible guide for the climbs of the main crag at Love Gap. The following pictures, route descriptions, and topos are all their work from the guide, and are reproduced here with their permission.

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Love Gap, compared to Seneca or Franklin, is an insignificant crag. It is definitely not a destination crag. However, it’s a great place to climb if you're a local or staying in Charlottesville, Staunton, or Harrisonburg. It consists mainly of easy to moderate trad climbing. Due to the wandering nature, multiple possible lines, and decomposed granite, it can be a bit of an adventure until you’re familiar with the routes. Most routes can be top-roped or traditionally lead, and there is one sport lead. Most routes will require you to lead an easier route in order to set a TR (the exception being the far righthand end of the crag where several routes can be set by hiking up and around). There is a wide variety of climbing including friction, slab, crack, OW, steep face crimps, huge roof projects, and yes, choss! :-) Helmets are advised for both leading and belaying. We have pulled off everything from crimper to softball-sized chunks while climbing.

Most climbs are a single pitch, 60'-100' with one route having three options for a second pitch. It's climbable year round but since it's southwest facing, it's especially good from fall through the winter to spring. Even at close to freezing temperatures in winter, if the sun's out and there's no wind, it can be enjoyable climbing. In the summer it can be hot, sticky and the rock often has a humid/damp feeling which makes it less suitable than Raven's Roost or Little Stony Man with their west faces and the prevailing westerly breezes.