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Cathedral Peak

Washington > Okanogan > Pasayten Wilderness

Description

The 'Jewel of the Pasaytens' - Cathedral Peak offers some great alpine climbing (see Beckey guide Vol. 3 for complete route descriptions). There are several well established lines on the imposing 1000' South face of Cathedral, as well as the smaller "Monk", but there is potential for many more as well as on the SE face of "The Pope" (small peak further north along the NE Ridge).

Getting There

Approach along the boundary Trail from the East from Iron Gate (22 miles to Cathedral Pass), from the SE up the Chewuch River Trail (20 miles to Cathedral Pass), or from the SW up the Andrews Creek Trail (18 miles to Upper Cathedral Lake).

Please keep in mind that despite guidebooks and maps posted to MP alluding to convenient access from BC, it is illegal to cross into the US from Canada in this area. The US Border Patrol does use various tools to patrol this area the fines are shockingly hefty.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1
 2
● South Face
Trad, Aid, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 37
● SE Buttress
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● The Monk - West Cracks - Left Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● The Monk - West Cracks - Right C…
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● The Monk - Odine
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● The Monk - Le Gibet
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● The Monk - Scabo
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 1
● NE Ridge
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● South Face
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 Trad, Aid, Alpine 7 pitches
● SE Buttress
 37
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
● The Monk - West Cracks - Le…
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
● The Monk - West Cracks - Ri…
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
● The Monk - Odine
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
● The Monk - Le Gibet
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● The Monk - Scabo
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● NE Ridge
 1
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cathedral Peak as Seen from the East on the Trail (SE Buttress follows the left edge from this angle. The upper pitches can be seen in this photo.)
[Hide Photo] Cathedral Peak as Seen from the East on the Trail (SE Buttress follows the left edge from this angle. The upper pitches can be seen in this photo.)
SW Face of Cathedral Pk. (and "The Monk" on the far lower right) from the North Ridge of Amphitheatre Mtn..
[Hide Photo] SW Face of Cathedral Pk. (and "The Monk" on the far lower right) from the North Ridge of Amphitheatre Mtn..
Cathedral from the pass
[Hide Photo] Cathedral from the pass
Upper Cathedral Lake - after climbing Cathedral (early August).
[Hide Photo] Upper Cathedral Lake - after climbing Cathedral (early August).
The crack systems on the West Face of The Monk, as viewed from the 4th pitch of Cathedral's SE Buttress.
[Hide Photo] The crack systems on the West Face of The Monk, as viewed from the 4th pitch of Cathedral's SE Buttress.
Camp on the east side of Cathedral Pass (early August - trying to avoid the mosquitos!)
[Hide Photo] Camp on the east side of Cathedral Pass (early August - trying to avoid the mosquitos!)
Upper Cathedral Lake in early August looking East towards Cathedral Pass (Cathedral Pk on the left, Amphitheatre Mtn. on the right)
[Hide Photo] Upper Cathedral Lake in early August looking East towards Cathedral Pass (Cathedral Pk on the left, Amphitheatre Mtn. on the right)
Cathedral Peak in early August from near Apex Pass to the SE.
[Hide Photo] Cathedral Peak in early August from near Apex Pass to the SE.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alec Entress
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] As of Aug 2022, we found Andrew's creek to be a relatively unpleasant approach. There's not a lot of shade due to the burn, and the trail has been pretty torn up by horses and overgrown. We heard from other folks that coming in from the east side trails is a nicer hike and not really significantly longer. Aug 29, 2022
Mitchell McAuslan
Spokane, WA
[Hide Comment] Who changed the grade on this climb? Aug 6, 2023