Lion's Head Rock Climbing

Please read the Access Issue note above regarding climbing at Lion's Head. 

Lion's Head is an outstanding limestone sport climbing destination located in the Bruce Peninsula of Ontario on the Georgian Bay. Lion's Head is not a beginner crag and climbing there is more involved than typical sport cragging. Accessing Lion's Head requires technical skills not typically gained from a lead lesson in a climbing gym. Routes are often accessed by rappelling in and climbing out. However, many of the routes that historically involved hanging belays have now been extended to the ground. There is also a trail at the base of the cliff from which most of the areas can be accessed. Stinger Gulley, a 4th / 5th class gulley toward the northeast end of the cliff (hiker's right from above or climber's left from below) can be used to access to the base of the cliff - note that this gulley previously had fixed ropes to make it easier to access but these are not in place as of 2024. Lion's Head is located across the bay from White Bluff.

*** Latvian Ledge Update ***
Please be advised as of June 9, 2020, the Ontario Alliance of Climbers has issued the following access update: OAC Access Update 6/9/20
"The OAC has been informed of the temporary removal of all moderate Latvian Ledge routes for the purposes of rehabilitation. These routes represent the bulk of moderate routes at Lions Head. Please ensure your plans do not require these routes to be available, and remember that top roping [from trees] at Lions Head is not permitted."

To keep updated on Ontario rock climbing - please check their website at the OAC Website. 

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/lions-head/