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Lower Tokopah Dome Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lower Tokopah Dome

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	1000 Piece Meal Deal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Beauty and the Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0
	Boardwalk Chimney, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mango Lassi Lulz Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Tokopah Adventure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R
	Tokopah Reality T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Welcome to Wallmart T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	9,800 ft	2,987 m
GPS:	36.62316, -118.6992 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	19,633 total · 155/month
Shared By:	SirTobyThe3rd M on Jun 3, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.

Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.

As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.

Description

There are two prominent domes across the valley from the Watchtower. Lower Tokopah Dome is slightly below and to the east of Santa Cruz Dome. Lower Tokopah dome had a few established routes and recently has seen much more development. Climbing on this dome ranges from quality slab climbing, to cracks and large chicken-head hero climbing. It has a large South Face that hosts routes that range from 550 to 700 feet of climbing, depending on the line you take. There are only four reported routes that go to the top of the dome, with a few more in the making. All routes have been established ground up.

Getting There

Park at Lodgepole in a big lot before the entrance to the campground.

Hike east on a road till you cross a bridge. From there do not continue up the valley (east) but take the Twin Lakes trail that cuts up and north through the campground.

Hike on Twin Lakes trail for about 20-30 mins till you reach a hump after which the trail starts heading down. Dont go down hill, but cut east through the forest. From here it is cross country. Stay as close to the crest of the ridge as possible. Take the path of least resistance. After you pass a major uphill climb (maybe after one and a half hours of hiking?) you want to stay right of the ridge-line and traverse towards the domes, which should be visible in the distance fairly soon. If you continue going up the ridge you will be above them. Hike to camp should take about 1.5-3 hours (depending on your fitness). Camp on a nice slab by a clean water stream. There are two close to each other. It takes another 15 minutes to reach the Domes which are just NE E of you. Lower Tokopah Dome is the prominent lower dome with a large chimney system splitting its SW Face.
When you are done, pack out all your trash. Leave the area as you found it, CLEAN!

7 Total Climbs

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Location:	Lower Tokopah Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Tokopah Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 5 ● The Boardwalk Chimney Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 13 ● Tokopah Reality Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 5 ● Mango Lassi Lulz Machine Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0 4 ● Beauty and the Beast Trad, Aid 5 pitches