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Rocky Face Recreational Area Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 1,126 ft | 343 m |
| GPS: |
35.9631, -81.12044 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 128,938 total · 977/month | |
| Shared By: | Ryan Beasley on Dec 28, 2013 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This sunny rock face was operated as a quarry in the 1920s. In 2013 it opened as a recreational venue operated as a municipal park by Alexander County. Rebolting is ongoing to upgrade aged fixed anchors. The rock quality is variable and the cliff sheds loose rock regularly. A helmet is advised for climbers and belayers. The park is located on Rocky Face Church Road just outside the town of Hiddenite.
History
Rocky Face is a man-made crag. A former quarry in the early to mid 1900s. The earliest documentation of the quarry used for climbing or rappelling was in the 1970s. The US Army Reservists 3rd Brigrade, 518 Division out of Hickory used Rocky Face for rappelling training in 1975. Later, a few local climbers would discover the mountain. The ethics then, were strictly traditional, all but one bolt had been put in on lead. This bolt was placed by Ben Dunlap and Terry Wright in a rainstorm, with a hardware store bought drill and a homemade hammer. This was the second bolt they had ever placed. As of 1993, only one route saw the power drill, it was done from the ground up.
With permission from the first ascensionists (local climber, Steve Pope and others), many of the original routes have been retro-bolted for the enjoyment of generations of climbers. As an ongoing process, new routes for all levels of climbing ability are being established, creating even more energy around Rocky Face as a destination for sport and toprope climbing. The Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC), CCC representative and Rock Dimensions owner, Ryan Beasley; along with locals Johnny O Connell and Travis Mabe have been important partners in helping to establish rock climbing as a major activity of the park.
To learn more about the Park and see a video from UNC TV NC Weekend.
http://video.unctv.org/video/2365143783/
Rocky Face Park has a great website with topo images.
Rocky Face Park Website
History
Rocky Face is a man-made crag. A former quarry in the early to mid 1900s. The earliest documentation of the quarry used for climbing or rappelling was in the 1970s. The US Army Reservists 3rd Brigrade, 518 Division out of Hickory used Rocky Face for rappelling training in 1975. Later, a few local climbers would discover the mountain. The ethics then, were strictly traditional, all but one bolt had been put in on lead. This bolt was placed by Ben Dunlap and Terry Wright in a rainstorm, with a hardware store bought drill and a homemade hammer. This was the second bolt they had ever placed. As of 1993, only one route saw the power drill, it was done from the ground up.
With permission from the first ascensionists (local climber, Steve Pope and others), many of the original routes have been retro-bolted for the enjoyment of generations of climbers. As an ongoing process, new routes for all levels of climbing ability are being established, creating even more energy around Rocky Face as a destination for sport and toprope climbing. The Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC), CCC representative and Rock Dimensions owner, Ryan Beasley; along with locals Johnny O Connell and Travis Mabe have been important partners in helping to establish rock climbing as a major activity of the park.
To learn more about the Park and see a video from UNC TV NC Weekend.
http://video.unctv.org/video/2365143783/
Rocky Face Park has a great website with topo images.
Rocky Face Park Website
Getting There
From Interstate 40 in Iredell County, travel US 64 West approximately 14 miles. Turn right at stoplight on Millersville Road. Travel one-half mile to stop sign on NC 90 and turn left. Travel one-half mile and turn right on White Plains Rd. Travel to stop sign and turn right on Rocky Springs Road. Travel 1.4 miles and turn left on Rocky Face Church Road. Park is 1.2 miles on right.
From Interstate 40 in Catawba County, travel NC 16 North toward Taylorsville and turn east onto US 64. Travel to stoplight at Millersville Road and turn left.Travel one-half mile to stop sign on NC 90 and turn left. Travel one-half mile and turn right on White Plains Rd. Travel to stop sign and turn right on Rocky Springs Road. Travel 1.4 miles and turn left on Rocky Face Church Road. Park is 1.2 miles on right.
From NC 16 North in Wilkes County, travel NC 16 South toward Taylorsville and turn east onto US 64. (Follow directions above from Millersville Road) From US 64/NC 90 in Caldwell County. Travel east onto US 64. (Follow directions above from Millersville Road)
From Interstate 40 in Catawba County, travel NC 16 North toward Taylorsville and turn east onto US 64. Travel to stoplight at Millersville Road and turn left.Travel one-half mile to stop sign on NC 90 and turn left. Travel one-half mile and turn right on White Plains Rd. Travel to stop sign and turn right on Rocky Springs Road. Travel 1.4 miles and turn left on Rocky Face Church Road. Park is 1.2 miles on right.
From NC 16 North in Wilkes County, travel NC 16 South toward Taylorsville and turn east onto US 64. (Follow directions above from Millersville Road) From US 64/NC 90 in Caldwell County. Travel east onto US 64. (Follow directions above from Millersville Road)
Classic Climbing Routes at Rocky Face Recreational Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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