CLICK HERE TO REPORT BAD BOLTS!
Summersville Lake is formed in the gorge of the Gauley River, and houses one of the New River Gorge's best concentrations of sport lines from 5.6 to 5.15a. Overall, the rock is more featured and more closely bolted than the lines of the New River Gorge proper. Be aware that many lines (including literally ALL of Long Point and Whippoorwill) are inaccessible except by boat from about April to November, due to the reservoir waterline.
Follow Rte. 19 north from Fayetteville and the NRG for about 20 miles. After crossing the obvious bridge over the lake (with views of the cliffline on both sides), turn into the parking lot for "Summersville State Park". Follow the dirt and gravel road up the hill to the new state park parking lot. Although the following directions may sound complex, if you just follow the main signs of foot traffic, you'll get directly to the crags.
HIKING DIRECTIONS:
As of 2024, there are now signs for Pirate's Cove Trail from the new parking lot. Follow those signs until you get to a fork - straight is the Pirate's Cove trail and left is the Climbers Trail to the rest of the crag. Following the Climbers Trail signs will take you down some new stone steps and to the metal staircase.
From the parking lot, follow a wide gravel trail past the gate for 1-2 minutes, when the trail splits at the base of a hill, trend right and up to the top of the hill on a dirt road. As of 2023, there is a temporary DANGER Equipment Crossing sign at the top of this hill. Continue along this rocky dirt road down the hill, keeping an eye out for a narrow left exit that descends down over a small creek. If you continue straight instead of left, the trail eventually ends up at Pirate's Cove, home to awesome winter bouldering and the classic Mutiny, 5.11d. At the left exit, the creek crossing should be nearly visible from the dirt road. Cross the creek and follow the blue flagging tape, trending right at a hairpin turn, and continue along the most beaten footpath.
After following this mostly straight path through the forest for another 5-10 minutes, look for a downhill path on your right at the very end of the obvious sign of foot traffic, dropping through a thicket of rhododendrons. As of Spring 2023, there is a single piece of blue flagging on a small twinned hickory tree. This path leads down new stone steps to another creek crossing and the new metal staircase at the downstream end next to the waterfall. The staircase put you near the DC Memorial Boulder.
In the summer months, watch for copperheads along the lake trails, but please do not harm them.
In 2020, NRAC and the USACE Army Corp updated the wooden ladder to a new and improved metal staircase. The staircase is easy to use and makes the lake climbing more accessible for those with small children, dogs, and those carrying crash pads for the wonderful lakeside bouldering in the winter months.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Rifle CO
To the "Summersville lake parking lot".
If you search for this address it will get you kind of close:
205 Up Yonder Drv. Summersville WV 26651.
More specific directions:
from Fayetteville take Hwy 19 north for 21 miles.
Drive over the only big bridge over a big lake with a sign that says "Hughes Bridge - Summersville Lake".
Then immediately turn right on the first little side street; this is at mile marker 39.0.
Then you will see a big gravel lot on your right where you will park.
Hike on the dirt road behind the gate up the hill. After about 8 min's, you will turn left off the dirt road down the first well traveled, narrow foot-path which heads down into the woods.
After a few minutes, this path will take you across a stream beside a very old, wooden, rotting bridge.
Follow the rest of the directions above. Jun 30, 2015
Denver, CO
Richmond, VA
I too tried a few "not" trails and after some unnecessary bushwacking and poor orienteering found the correct way, so wanted to add additional clarification for first-time venturers like me.
Getting to the stream crossing is fairly straightforward. Once you cross the stream, you will head slightly uphill. The trail actually diverges here to the left and right. You want to stay to the right. At the time of writing, there is a small rock cairn that marks the correct path. There is also a trail marker with a crudely scrawled "Rock -->" that can be hidden by branches.
You'll keep hiking for a little ways and then once again the trail will split. You want to stay to the right again. There is also a rock cairn at this point as well. You'll know you're going the right way if you see trees marked with red blazes and Army Corps of Engineers boundary signs on the trees.
From this point the other directions are accurate.
The first "exit" off this trail will take you to an overlook with remnants of a campsite. There is a waterfall and stream here as well, but this is not the one you want for access to the majority of the climbs. This is for Pirate's cove. There are boat ropes tied here to assist with the climb down that I do NOT recommend using based on their current condition. So, if you find yourself in this area unintentionally, go back to the trail with red blazes and continue for a bit until you reach the second "exit". You'll find timber "stairs" leading down to a stream crossing and the ladder as previously mentioned. Mar 7, 2017
Megalopolis Adjacent
Salt Lake City, UT
Fayetteville, WV