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5. Three Bears Wall
New York
> Powerlinez
> k. Tower Wall area
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times). Do not block pump station access gates at any time. Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Shady area shielded by trees. Moderate slab with easy climbs. Fair amount of plant life growing on the rock.
Getting There
Hike in from Torne Valley Road, along the service road/trail. This wall is just to the left of the Tower Wall.
[Hide Comment] Climbed in the Powerlinez for the first time this weekend; chose climbing at Three Bears Wall as a way to become familiar with the rock, the protection, the grading, etc.
Some notes:
- Lots of hollow rock, and flakes that should not have cams placed behind them. Many of the climbs here are easy (even for a first-time climber), but not necessarily well-protected. Many flared horizontals encountered - I bet offset-cams would've been great here.
- If you choose to lead, there's no need to bring up any static-line or webbing for a tree-anchor. There is a horizontal crack-system that extends throughout this section of the cliff, which eats gear of all sizes (purple to blue C4s were great). Just build a gear anchor, run your top-rope laps, and have your last climber clean the anchor and walk down (climber's left).
- Lots of dirty cracks here - Make sure that any pro you place is between two rock surfaces, and not between rock and a thick layer of dirt.
- Grades are probably about two grades easier than Gunks grades - A 5.4 here is probably roughly a Gunks a 5.2 .
Can't say how much this holds for any other walls in the area. Anyway, the climbs are easy, so just go and have fun - But I hope this information is helpful for any new leaders looking for a little extra beta.
Jun 11, 2017
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
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New York, NY
Some notes:
- Lots of hollow rock, and flakes that should not have cams placed behind them. Many of the climbs here are easy (even for a first-time climber), but not necessarily well-protected. Many flared horizontals encountered - I bet offset-cams would've been great here.
- If you choose to lead, there's no need to bring up any static-line or webbing for a tree-anchor. There is a horizontal crack-system that extends throughout this section of the cliff, which eats gear of all sizes (purple to blue C4s were great). Just build a gear anchor, run your top-rope laps, and have your last climber clean the anchor and walk down (climber's left).
- Lots of dirty cracks here - Make sure that any pro you place is between two rock surfaces, and not between rock and a thick layer of dirt.
- Grades are probably about two grades easier than Gunks grades - A 5.4 here is probably roughly a Gunks a 5.2 .
Can't say how much this holds for any other walls in the area. Anyway, the climbs are easy, so just go and have fun - But I hope this information is helpful for any new leaders looking for a little extra beta. Jun 11, 2017