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Elevation: 6 ft 2 m
GPS: 43.20246, 5.49794
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,179 total · 165/month
Shared By: Gini Kramer on Nov 6, 2013
Admins: David Riley, Luc-514
Warning Access Issue: Summer closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

En Vau is probably the jewel of the Calanques de Marseille. The climbing is excellent and the location is spectacular. Because En Vau is very popular, it is best avoided on weekends. The rock can be polished because folks have been climbing there for over 100 years. Route in En Vau are bolted, but, unlike other areas in the Calanques where the bolts seem to be about 3 feet apart, the bolting can be rather runout. So it's a good idea to bring a set of nuts and maybe a few small cams.

Getting There Suggest change

There are two approaches to En Vau and both require a bit of hiking. The first option is to park on route D559, which runs between Cassis and Marseille and follow the red/white trail, about a 90-minute walk. You can no longer park at Col de la Gardiole (as old guidebook claim), making this much longer than it used to be!

The other is to park at Port Miou and take the GR98-51 trail. This involves less distance and takes half as long but is more crowded and parking may be full on weekends.

21 Total Climbs

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Location: Calanque d'En-Vau Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Calanque d'En-Vau

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Face à la mer
Sport
Petite Aiguille
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 15
● Saphir
Sport 5 pitches
La Saphir
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Direct de Gauche
Sport
Petite Aiguille
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
● Directe de Droite De La Diagnole
Sport
Petite Aiguille
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
● Super Sirene
Sport 4 pitches
La Sirene
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Face à la mer Petite Aiguille
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Saphir La Saphir
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport 5 pitches
● Direct de Gauche Petite Aiguille
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Directe de Droite De La Dia… Petite Aiguille
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Super Sirene La Sirene
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Calanque d'En-Vau »

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Photos

En Vau, climbers on one of the more mild multipitches to the right over the ocean.
En Vau, climbers on one of the more mild multip…
 1
Calanque d'En-Vau beach in early June. It is also a climbing spot with rich history.
Calanque d'En-Vau beach in early June. It is al…
 2
En Vau from the top of La Saphir
En Vau from the top of La Saphir
 1
looking out at le doigt de dieu
looking out at le doigt de dieu
 1
Climbing scenery of Calanque d'En-Vau.
Climbing scenery of Calanque d'En-Vau.
 1
Looking down on En Vau from the top of "Saphir."
Looking down on En Vau from the top of "Saphir."
 3
Port Miou, on the way to the secluded En Vau.
Port Miou, on the way to the secluded En Vau.
 0
Calanque d'En-Vau is most easily approached from the water, but you'll need to swim or use a kayak to reach the beach.
Calanque d'En-Vau is most easily approached fro…
 0
The back of le Calanque d'En-Vau. The approach trail snakes through the middle of the gorge. Le Petite Aiguille can be seen in the lower right of the image.
The back of le Calanque d'En-Vau. The approach…
 0
Calanque d'En-Vau and its approach are often filled with tourists! View from the top of Le Petite Aiguille.
Calanque d'En-Vau and its approach are often fi…
 0
Super Sirene, an absolute classic route and a feat ahead of its time. This three pitch undertaking follows the striking and elegant pillar. FA, 1941, Gaston Rebuffat and Paul Geurin.
Super Sirene, an absolute classic route and a f…
 0
Looking back at the Grand Aiguille after climbing several fun routes there.
Looking back at the Grand Aiguille after climbi…
 0

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