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Devil's Peak Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Devil's Peak

Lost World, The 10

Main Wall 18

Upper Wall 2

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Elevation:	18 ft	5 m
GPS:	22.28605, 114.24286 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	19,028 total · 136/month
Shared By:	Brian Boyd on Nov 3, 2013
Admins:	Brian Boyd, Nate Ball, Dan Flynn Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Bolt removal Details

The HK government has stripped bolts on the Main Wall in response to pro-democracy banners being hung on the cliff by protestors.

Description

The HK government has stripped bolts on the Main Wall.

Prominent slab overlooking the eastern side of Kowloon. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.11, with most climbs 5.9 or 5.10. Excellent granite face and friction climbing in a scenic setting. Devil's Peak is a rap-in-climb out venue, with three separate walls. The upper headwall -- presently covered in red and pink paint -- has two short routes. The main wall below is the primary attraction. The Lost World has a number of high quality routes, and has more friction moves than the main wall.

Gets sun from mid-morning through the end of the day. Minimal shade at the base, making this area best saved for winter months.

Getting There

Exit A2 from the Yau Tong MTR, walk east and take your first left. At the sign for the Chinese Cemetery, head right up the hill for about ten minutes. Cross the street at the sign for the Wilson Trail. Take the left trail, and follow the steps for another ten minutes to the top of the slab. There is a rap anchor just below the railing, and a descent scramble to the left. Total approach time from the MTR to the rap anchor is 25 minutes or so. One short rappel puts you at the base of the headwall. Walk down a short path to a bolted anchor with chains. A 60 meter rope will just reach to the ledge on the left side of the cliff. There is an additional rap station directly below (not visible from above), and another station down and left when looking out from the cliff. That anchor marks the top of Special Forces, and a 60 meter rope will just reach the ground.