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Monkey Buttress

International > Asia > China > Hong Kong

Description

A short crag (12 meters at most) in an easily accessible location. Vertical to slightly off vertical climbing on thin edges and pockets. The rock is volcanic but of a slightly different character than the other volcanic locations in Hong Kong.

A number of new routes were recently developed on the left side of the crag, most of which are at a lower grade than the previous routes. Very easy access and a mix of grades will make this a popular area.

Topo for Monkey Buttress can be downloaded here

Getting There

Green minibus 25 from Causeway Bay, or taxi from Tin Hau MTR. Go to the end of Braemar Hill Road. From the end of the road, take the steps down the drainage and cross a small stream to a dirt path. As you walk uphill on orange color dirt, look for a concrete slab in the middle of the trail. At this point look turn right. Follow the trail with a fixed handline or two to the crag.



Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
● Via Spericolata
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
● Jujube's Memory
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
● No! No! No!
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
● Braemar Hill '85
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
● The Wedding Gift
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
● Impavidi Destini
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
● Cheeky Monkey
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
● Gorilla Warfare
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
● Back to School
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
● Monkey Business
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
● Hell
Trad
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 1
● Evolution
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
● Teachers Pet
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Via Spericolata
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Jujube's Memory
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● No! No! No!
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Braemar Hill '85
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● The Wedding Gift
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Impavidi Destini
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Cheeky Monkey
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
● Gorilla Warfare
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Back to School
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Monkey Business
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Hell
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Evolution
 1
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
● Teachers Pet
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Huge Spiders at monkey buttress in June
[Hide Photo] Huge Spiders at monkey buttress in June
The view at the top of the crag. The routes seen in the picture are; from back to school (leftmost) to Pet Teachers (rightmost).
[Hide Photo] The view at the top of the crag. The routes seen in the picture are; from back to school (leftmost) to Pet Teachers (rightmost).
Money Buttress
[Hide Photo] Money Buttress

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Riley
Barcelona, ES
[Hide Comment] First of all take the first right turn you see when you're heading up the trail. When we were there, there were climbing ropes tied along the trail. This takes you to the base of the crag. It shouldn't be much more than a 5 minute approach. Secondly, we went to Monkey Buttress on a trip to HK in June/July. During this time of year there are a bunch of HUGE spiders (as big as your face) that make webs across the trail. I'm not sure if they're poisonous, but just an FYI. Also take a lot of mosquito spray and also mosquito coils. There are a bunch of relentless mosquitos at this crag. Thirdly, if it's the summer don't go to the crag until about 1:00. Before this in the summer it's pretty much unclimbable. The locals that we met told us that the local community calls the crag "Hell." Enjoy. Jul 5, 2015