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Shangri La Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Shangri La

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	Checkerboard Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	God-Stopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rat Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	6,826 ft	2,081 m
GPS:	42.0961, -113.7193 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,344 total · 32/month
Shared By:	J Hickok on Aug 18, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

This secluded and remote fin of rock hosts some nice climbing on rock that would be as good as anything else at the City, if it got climbed just a little it more. The slightly less clean nature of the climbing is obviously a byproduct of the approach, because these routes would be very popular by "normal" City approach standards. As it stands, the rock here is indeed good and there are a fine selection of climbs. The natural arch, Lost Horizons Arch, sits in the middle of the formation, but can be difficult to see from above in certain light conditions and from certain angles.

There is a north face that is almost entirely shady with the Checkerboard routes, and tops out on the smaller north summit. I cannot verify any anchor or rappel information for these routes. There is a rappel anchor at the north-west corner of the north summit. You can rappel to the ground with a single 70m rope from here, and a 60m would probably make it as well, but I cannot verify this.

Then there is the west face which remains shady in the morning, but then goes into the sun. The cracks on the far left (north) end of the west face might go in the shade last - especially the left facing corner tucked away. Most of the routes here are on the west face spread out as you proceed down (south along the wall).