To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Cadarese
International
> Europe
> Italy
Description
What would a European destination be without bolted cracks? Cadarese! Not to break too much from tradition, there are many bolted cracks here (really nice for safely learning to place gear), but these granite cliffs offer Yosemite-esque quality lines and bring along much the same ethic. More info: klettern.de/kletterziele/it…
Getting There
Near Tessin. Parking is available at the GPS coordinates. The routes are arranged in four sectors, A, B, C, and D. These 4 sectors are basically stacked vertically on one another, with C up and to the right from B. Location: Follow the approach trail up a series of steep switchbacks for about 20 min. At the base, you'll see a wide ramp going up and off to the right, which leads to Sector C with the routes Ciao, La Freccia, and L'Arco (and many others).
[Hide Comment] Cadarese is outstanding! The rock is perfect Yosemite-style granite with an abundance of cracks of every shape and size, with a range of difficulties, from moderate to extremely hard. Nearly all are single pitches, and many (not all) are bolted despite cracks that simply eat gear. As others here have exhorted... skip the bolts, plug the gear!
The approach is 5-30 minutes depending on which sector you go to, and there is free camping 100 yards down the road (nothing luxurious, but with bathrooms, running water, and picnic tables). Add to that a dozen authentic Italian pizza joints within a stone's throw... what more could you ask for?!
A couple of notes: Despite what the chart shows, prime time is definitely not mid-summer, but late spring and then fall, and into late fall... you can still get good climbing weather well into Nov/Dec with a little luck. The crag is mostly in the shade and is west facing, so doesn't see sun until the afternoon, if at all, but summertime heat is just too much.
Also, there isn't a ton of easy stuff. Below 5.9 the pickings are slim, and 5.10 is really the entry-level grade here. For granite cracks 5.10 and above, welcome to paradise. Make the trip and you won't be disappointed.
Finally, note that the approach trail is a bit sketchy and this is NOT a child-friendly crag! The initial approach trail is a bit of a bowling alley for loose rock if somebody is hiking above you (we learned this the hard way, though without any serious consequences). Some of the sectors require hiking along a ledge system where the trail is close to the edge and a fall could have serious consequences. Fixed ropes are in place in many places to use as handrails.
Oct 30, 2017
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Northeast mostly
Via slack-line.ch.
Also in the new Filidor Extrem Sud, as this is a popular spot for the Swiss to come down to as well. Jul 20, 2016
Ohio
The approach is 5-30 minutes depending on which sector you go to, and there is free camping 100 yards down the road (nothing luxurious, but with bathrooms, running water, and picnic tables). Add to that a dozen authentic Italian pizza joints within a stone's throw... what more could you ask for?!
A couple of notes: Despite what the chart shows, prime time is definitely not mid-summer, but late spring and then fall, and into late fall... you can still get good climbing weather well into Nov/Dec with a little luck. The crag is mostly in the shade and is west facing, so doesn't see sun until the afternoon, if at all, but summertime heat is just too much.
Also, there isn't a ton of easy stuff. Below 5.9 the pickings are slim, and 5.10 is really the entry-level grade here. For granite cracks 5.10 and above, welcome to paradise. Make the trip and you won't be disappointed.
Finally, note that the approach trail is a bit sketchy and this is NOT a child-friendly crag! The initial approach trail is a bit of a bowling alley for loose rock if somebody is hiking above you (we learned this the hard way, though without any serious consequences). Some of the sectors require hiking along a ledge system where the trail is close to the edge and a fall could have serious consequences. Fixed ropes are in place in many places to use as handrails. Oct 30, 2017