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Upper Division Wall

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Upper Division is a shady and steep wall 10 minutes uphill from Division Wall. The wall is tightly packed with a few very popular 12s with at least one of each letter grade. Most of the routes start very close together (or on the same line) in a small cave.

WARNING: Upper division wall sits directly above the very popular Division Wall and Little Mill Campground parking lot. Rockfall from Upper Division can be very dangerous due to the number of people who are below. Please be mindful of sending debris down while moving around and climbing at this wall.

Getting There

Same route as going to Division wall, however Hike past the the routes on Division wall and immediately look for the switchback trail to your left. It will hike up 10 minutes or so and start pointing towards the middle section of Division wall on your right. Since your trying to get ontop of Division wall cut right when you see a trail going into the rock as that is the route that takes you to Upper Division

Routes from Left to Right

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 23
Left for Dead
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 49
Neural Processor
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 176
Pocket Debris
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 120
Algorithm
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 74
Pocket Rhythm
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 39
The Bewildering Minute
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 24
Empty Your Pockets
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 41
Bender
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 25
Black Heart
Sport
5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V5 6C AI6 M16+ A5+ Steep Snow
 23
Tick the Brick
Aid, Boulder, Mixed, Ice, Snow
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left for Dead
 23
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Neural Processor
 49
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Pocket Debris
 176
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Algorithm
 120
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Pocket Rhythm
 74
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Bewildering Minute
 39
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Empty Your Pockets
 24
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Bender
 41
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Black Heart
 25
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tick the Brick
 23
5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V5 6C AI6 M16+ A5+ Steep Snow Aid, Boulder, Mixed, Ice, Snow

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hanging around at Upper Division Wall
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Shot by Sophie Felici
[Hide Photo] Hanging around at Upper Division Wall Shot by Sophie Felici

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I am not 100% sure, but i have been up there a lot... love it, but i seem to think that the route right of Algorithm is not a project... Not sure what it is, so i could be wrong, but i have heard it is a pretty good 12c or d (???)... Aug 22, 2013
[Hide Comment] You are correct the route to the right of Algorithm is a 12c/d put up by Tim Roberts i think. Next route right of that is a 12c call Bewildering Minute. Aug 26, 2013
[Hide Comment] The route to the right of Algorithm is called Pocket Rhythm by Tim Roberts. I thought that it was 12c for me, but hey, I love monos! Some say it's harder.
The next route to the right is actually two routes. Climb the first 4 or 5 bolts continue going straight up is a route that Boyle had started and I finished bolting it to the chains over twelve years ago. I called it, "Empty Your Pockets." I rated it 12c but if you're good at gastons it might be 12b. If you go right from the 4th or 5th bolt, it's a route that Chad Zurinskas bolted called, "Bender". He rated it 12c and when I repeated it, it seemed like the right grade to me.
The next two routes to the right have always had the grades reversed. Black Heart is 12a and a damn fine one. Blimp Factor is a 12c. Not my favorite, sharp and tricky. There's also another route even further to the right that never was finished and still needs a few more bolts unless Steve got around to finishing it. Aug 27, 2013
Lotapowder
Sandy
[Hide Comment] Darren, you are correct except that the next routes right of Tim's route are actually three routes that share the same start. If you go up the first two bolts and then go left, like Kevin said, it is a route called "The Bewildering Minute" that Neal Carroll put up a couple years ago. It is 12c. Really good. If you go right at the second bolt, you go into the two routes that split at the forth bolt, "Empty Your Pockets" on the left and "Bender" on the right. A lot of bolts in this area... Sep 5, 2013
Matthew Conn
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] BEWARE ROCK FALL! Be very careful not to kick rocks down the slope at the base of this wall. They fall right onto lower division with speed and consequence. Primary fall zone is the very popular liquid oxygen and abyss and it is often crowded. May 15, 2021