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Shuanglang Hardcore Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Shuanglang Hardcore

L › R R › L A › Z

	Angels Fall First S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Awaken Mustakrakesh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Back-Alley Liposuction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Black Lake Nidstang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Bunny Hug S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Death Murder Blood Gore S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Easier Said Than Done S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	El Male Rachamin (“O Merciful God”) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Face of All Your Fears, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Faustian Bargin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Furu Rimjob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	In the Clutches of Uncle LiRui S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Insight and Catharsis S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Kerouac Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	L.D.G. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Leviathan S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mel’s Exciting Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mortification of the Flesh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Nude Nuns with Big Guns S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Nuts and Ovaries S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Poser Disposer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pure Fucking Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Requiem for a Thornbush S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Scaling the Walls of Mordor S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Spread Your Legs and Trust the Rubber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stoon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Stoon Steeze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Sweet As a Stolen Kiss S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

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Elevation:	7,563 ft	2,305 m
GPS:	25.90825, 100.21867 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,019 total · 57/month
Shared By:	gen d-s on Jul 15, 2013
Admins:	Bob Moseley, Nate Ball, Dan Flynn Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Hardcore is a secluded crag, away from the hustle and bustle of the old town or Shuanglang, with gorgeous views of the fields and Erhai lake. The best part about climbing in Dali is the mild climate; sunny days even in winter are almost too warm, and an overcast day even in August is very pleasant. The rock in Shuanglang is a mixture of limestone and quartzite, and generally quite solid. A few routes have chossy/dirty starts, but these could be protected by bringing a stick/clip for the first bolt. As a newly developed crag, loose rock is concern, and wearing a helmet highly advisable. The cliff comes fully in the sun around noon, with only marginal shade under the overhangs. A 60 meter rope and 14 draws are sufficient for all the routes.

Getting There

From Dali Old Town, either hire a van or catch the public bus that runs along the highway to Shuanglang. Tell the driver that you want to get off at Changyu Cun, about 2 kms past the main tourist area of Dajianpang. Sometimes you have to switch buses halfway in Jiangwei. Once dropped off, walk through the town towards the mountains; the crag is visible from the road. Make your way through the fields behind the village, trending slightly left and heading for the highway underpass. The trail heading up the mountain starts from the road running under the highway, directly into the corn fields. There are many farmer trails at this point, but the best trail heads up and right, eventually reaching a low forest, before cutting back left underneath the cliffs. The approach takes about 45 minutes, the drive 45-90.