Ban-y-Gor Rocks Rock Climbing

The Wye valley's best sport crag, with a good collection of routes in the 5.11s and .12s. Although there are also some traditional routes, the bolted lines are the main attraction here, and some of the old trad routes have been recently retro-bolted. The rock is natural limestone, steep for the most part, with some truly awesome roof climbing around the Crawl Area and the Main Wall.

At the right hand end (first encountered on the approach) the escarpment is pretty short and divided into a series of buttresses, rather than a continuous cliff. Further on, you encounter the Crawl area, which rises to about 20m before being broken again by a wide gully. Finally, you get to the Main Wall, which is the most continuous section of the crag and (at up to 25m) the tallest.

Because of this quite complicated layout, this page is best broken down into smaller areas. Currently, these are as follows, though it will probably be necessary to change/add to them as the routes get filled in:
Right-hand escarpment
Crawl Area
Main Wall

Ban-y-gor is a popular summer venue due to its northerly aspect and the shade offered by trees, though once you climb above the tree cover you can catch some evening sun.