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Crapaud de mer

International > N America > Canada > Quebec > 03. Quebec City
Warning Access Issue: Ce site n'est pas entretenu grimpez à vos risques - This area is not maintained climb at your own risk. DetailsDrop down

Description

Very small and quiet. Crapaud de mer offers fun and easy routes for beginning sport climbers, ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 as well as boulderers.
Some routes are only accessible when the tide is low but most of them are on an upward path along the main cliff.
Due to the proximity of the water as well as the quality of the rock, all fixed protections are to be treated as suspect.  This site is not maintained or inspected by any association.

Très petite et silencieuse. Crapaud de mer offre des voies amusantes et faciles pour les grimpeurs sportifs débutants, allant de 5,5 à 5,10 ainsi que pour les passionés du bloc.
Certaines voies ne sont accessibles qu'à marée basse, mais la plupart d'entre elles sont sur un sentier ascendant le long de la falaise principale.
En raison de la proximité de l'eau ainsi que de la qualité de la roche, toutes les protections fixes doivent être traitées comme suspectes.  Ce site n'est ni entretenu ni inspecté par aucune association.

Getting There

Very close to two other local crags (Pylones and Champlain). From blvd Champlain take Chemin Domaine des retraités towards the west at the light west of the bridge (highway 73). Take the first street to your left following signs to the Parc du domaine des retraités/Sentier des greves. There are stairs going down the cliff for pedestrians. Very easy access and parking.

Très proche de deux autres falaises locales (Pylones et Champlain). Du boulevard Champlain, prendre le chemin Domaine des retraités vers l'ouest à la lumière à l'ouest du pont (autoroute 73). Prenez la première rue à gauche en suivant les indications pour le Parc du domaine des retraités/Sentier des greves. Il y a des escaliers qui descendent la falaise pour les promeneurs. Accès et stationnement très faciles.

Routes

A bout d'épices! V4
Octopussy V4
C' lui zoom! V3
La misère! V3
Tichat V2
La traversée à Gaston! V2
Leyâb! V7
Monobucket V6
Le jour le plus long 5.10a
Ypres 5.12b
La malcommode V4
Été Indien V4
RedNeck V5
La misère du yâb! V7
Vimy 5.11b
La traversée d'Achille V3
Instigante diabolo 5.9
Le taon de Vénus 5.9 0m / 33ft, 3 bolts
Point de lendemain 5.7
Chemin des dames 5.7
Oculus 5.7
La dalle de l'homme sans tronc V0
Ascendo ergo sum! 5.8
Little boy 5.8
Anabase 5.8
Cuisses de grenouille V1
Vneck V2
Récolte d'automne V2
L'Achille direct V3
Lingerie Fine 5.7 3b
WeedmushNclop V3
Tite vit 5.6 4b

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Comedia e finita
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
● Racine du mal
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Tire-Vit
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Tite-vit
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Formica
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Gamahucher
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Lingerie fine
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Vampirella
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Dupin sur la planche
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Crapeau souriant
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Anabase
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Bataille de calamine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
● Ypres
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
● Nemo profeta in patriaka
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
● Vimy
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Chemin des dames
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Venus
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Little Boy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Le jour le plus long
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● Instigante diabolo
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● Ascendo ergo sum
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Unknown
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Comedia e finita
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Racine du mal
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Tire-Vit
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Tite-vit
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Formica
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Gamahucher
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Lingerie fine
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Vampirella
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Dupin sur la planche
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Crapeau souriant
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Anabase
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Bataille de calamine
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Ypres
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Nemo profeta in patriaka
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
● Vimy
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Chemin des dames
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Venus
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Little Boy
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Le jour le plus long
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Instigante diabolo
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Ascendo ergo sum
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Unknown
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right side of cliff
[Hide Photo] Right side of cliff
the climb, the crag, the view
[Hide Photo] the climb, the crag, the view

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Marjorie Veilleux
Shawinigan
[Hide Comment] Not the best crag in Quebec city (regarding rock quality and routes) but the scenery and the short approach make up for that! Some starts are challenging and quite comitting to get the first bolt, I would suggest bringing a stickclip. Also some moves higher up seemed to me more technical than the grade suggests (also called "sandbad" :P ), which was consistent through the routes I climbed. As for the safety of the fixed gear, it seemed okay, even though there was surface rust and a few funky pieces, but it's better that you judge for yourself as I'm no expert. The routes names are written (graffiti) at the base of the wall. Sep 3, 2019