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Totem-Proto Area

Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

The resurgence of development on Totem Pole and the fantastic new lines established on it led to new opportunities for development. New lines are now also up around Proto Pipe and the area has much more to offer. It seems appropriate to separate it out from Glitter Box as it's as separate from there as the Road Area is and has potential to extend into the next canyon south with all the good quality rock and long lines.

Getting There

The Totem Pole is the icon of Lower Devils Canyon and the trail there was recently much improved.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 165
The Totem Pole
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Totem Pole Direct
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 3
Direct North Face
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 75
Pathological Optimist
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Drop 'em South
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
The Fruits of Optomisim
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Overcoming Inertia
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Proto Type
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Proto Pipe
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
 4
Up in Smoke
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Protean Catch
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Pipe Bomb
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Pipe Cleaner
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Inertia
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
GTKO
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 2
Shakin' & Eggs
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Milk of Manatee
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Chicken Shit Salad
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Fern Gully Arete
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 1
Original Optomist
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Totem Pole
 165
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Totem Pole Direct
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Direct North Face
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Pathological Optimist
 75
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Drop 'em South
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Fruits of Optomisim
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Overcoming Inertia
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Proto Type
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Proto Pipe
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Up in Smoke
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Trad
Protean Catch
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pipe Bomb
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pipe Cleaner
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Inertia
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
GTKO
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Shakin' & Eggs
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Milk of Manatee
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chicken Shit Salad
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fern Gully Arete
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Original Optomist
 1
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Totem Pole, Proto Pipe, and some of the new routes put up in the new region.
[Hide Photo] Totem Pole, Proto Pipe, and some of the new routes put up in the new region.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The drive in is all dirt road, doable in most vehicles until it gets rocky, and then high clearance and 4WD is absolutely, no doubt about it necessary. I wouldn’t attempt the drive unless you’ve basically got a rock crawler. Tried this in a 2WD Nissan Frontier and got stuck a few times, needed help from others to get towed/pushed out. Definitely will hike in after it gets rocky next time. Dec 11, 2022