Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Fin

Idaho > W Idaho > S Fork of the Clearwater

Description

THE DORSAL FIN

Everyone who’s climbed at Lightning Dome has stared longingly at this feature and wondered what it’s like to climb. Most never take the time to enjoy this classic alpine-esque adventure right here along the Clearwater! Both sides of the Fin hold potential for new routes.

This climb requires skilled route-finding on occasionally lichen-covered rock, but is not to be missed. There have been forced bivouacks on this climb, so get an early start, move efficiently, and take a headlamp.

Getting There

Cross the river from the main parking pullout at milepost 21 using a boat, or by wading the frigid waters in the late summer and fall. Once across, walk downstream about 100 meters until in a wide drainage directly below the Fin. Follow bits of flagging uphill for about 1.5 hours, staying left of the Fin, until able to walk the obvious treed ledge rightward onto the ridgecrest.

The lower portion of the buttress features a very wide chimney which is unclimbed.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Carlson
Moscow, ID
[Hide Comment] The Fin is very worthwhile, although the leader should have a nut tool or something like that for the crux pitches where there is dirt in the cracks. Take a rap sling for a short rappel to the left about halfway up, by the variant my brother, Brian and I climbed back in the 90s, the hardest section was about 5.8, but one should be solid on an unprotected 5.4 slab. Take a pair of shoes for the walk off, to the left, and water. Jan 17, 2022
Jake907
Anchorage Alaska
[Hide Comment] Grade III 5.7 Basically start climber's left of the bottom of the Fin and follow the path of least resistance for 7 or so pitches until an obvious sidewalk near the top. I climbed it in 2006 so that memory is a little rusty but generally the route stayed close to but slightly left of the nose of the Fin. Beautiful feature and great adventure! Jan 25, 2024