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First Pillar
New Mexico
> Las Cruces Area…
> Organ Mountains
> S Organs
> Pena Blanca
> Garden
Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness.
Details
Description
Top rope routes and variations on the south face of the first pillar. Sunny all year long, so it must get really hot during summer. Red granite faces with black water streaks. A mixture of nice solid rock with a few chossy sections, mostly in the cracks. Still a nice place to introduce beginners.
Access to the ridge from the north side of the pillar, right south of the Monks. There are two solid top rope anchors for the routes facing south (5.6-5.8). Quickdraws will do, but long slings would be better to reduce rope abrasion. A single bolt seems to be aimed at the southeast face and crack. A 5.6 southeast face could be the reason for it?
Getting There
As the name indicates, it is the first pillar on the west end of the Garden Wall.
Routes from Left to Right
Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
5.8 crack
|
|
1
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TR
|
●
5.7 crack / face
|
|
2
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
TR
|
[Hide Photo] The First Pillar. The slabby face on the right (5.7) and the crack on the left (5.8) offer several variations.